Crochet Shawlette Pattern | Ottobre Shawlette Crochet Pattern
The Ottobre Shawlette is a light and lacy crochet shawl pattern. This small shawl features cotton yarn an a mix of beautiful stitches for a truly unique crochet shawlette.
The Ottobre styles beautifully as a scarf, or small summer shawl. Combine colors to create a modern palette of your favorites.
Crochet shawls are so popular to gift. I created this crochet shawlette as a gift for my sister in law.
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October means chilly mornings and evenings with warm afternoons.The Ottobre Shawlette is perfect for fall or spring, as it’s not too heavy and it’s on the smaller side. It can be worn as a lightweight wrap or a scarf.
I love how all the textures and open spaces work so well together. I chose four colors to alternate throughout in different size stripes.
I think all the texture in this shawlette would also add interest to a single solid color yarn as well.
Materials
- 1340 yds (1224 m) of Berroco Modern Cotton DK,* a #3 lightweight yarn (60% pima cotton, 40% modal rayon, 335 yd (97 m) per 100 g hank) divided in 4 shades—see more details below. Chepstow (brown), Point Judith (pink), Elms (green) and Hope (blue).
- 3.75 mm (US Size F) crochet hook,* or size needed to meet gauge.
- Yarn needle, measuring tape, scissors, stitch marker(s).
Yarn By Color
Color A (brown) Chepstow—1 hank ~330 yds
Color B (pink) Point Judith—1 hank ~285 yds
Color C (green) Elms—1 hank ~305 yds
Color D (blue) Hope—1 hank ~275 yds
Notes
- Please read through all notes and pattern before you begin.
- Work up a gauge swatch using the provided gauge information. If your gauge matches great, continue on. If not, change your hook size and swatch again. If your stitches are smaller, go up a hook size, if they’re larger, go down a hook size.
- Beginning chains count as stitches unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
- Color changing tip: before the last movement of last stitch before the color change, drop the first color and pick up the second color, finish the stitch in the new color.
Finished Dimensions
27″ down the spine to the tip & 55″ across the top of the wingspan.
This shawlette can easily be enlarged but requires more yarn: 1-2 more hanks of the suggested yarn should make it a full size shawl.
Gauge:
1″/5 sts x 2 rows (after blocking) to 1” (2.5 cm) measured in dc.
Skill Level
Intermediate
Stitches/Abbreviations
US Terms
ch(s) – chain(s)
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip the indicated stitch
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
Special Stitches
bo – bobble stitch
CL – cluster st: dc3tog + ch 2
FPdc – front post double crochet
ldc – long double crochet
p – picot—sc in next st, ch 5, sl st back to sc.
v-st – v-stitch
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Pattern Instructions
Ottobre Shawlette Free Crochet Pattern and Tutorial
Crochet the Ottobre Shawlette a lightweight summer scarf featuring a mix of interesting stitches.
Materials
- 1340 yds of dk weight or #3 light yarn, see details above.
Tools
- 3.75mm US Size F/5 hook
- tapestry needle
- scissors
- measuring tape
Instructions
Color A
Row 1. Start with a mc, or ch 3, sl st to first ch to create a circle. In circle place 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 3 (this is the center increase point), 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, turn. 
Row 2. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1 here & throughout), sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, place (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 3 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 4, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 3 sp, ch 1, sk 3 sts, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk 3 s ts, 3 dc in last ch 1 sp, dc in last stitch, turn..
Row 4: Ch 4, *3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts; rep * to ch 3 sp, place (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 3 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, rep * to last 2 sts, 3 dc in last ch 1 sp, ch 1, dc in last st, turn.
Rows 5 – 11. Rep Row 4.
.
Row 12. Ch 3, 2 dc in ch sp, dc in each st and ch sp until center, in ch 3 sp place (dc in 1st ch, 3 dc in next chain, dc in 3rd ch), continue to dc in each st until 2 sts left, 2 dc in next st, dc in last st, turn.
Row 13. Ch 3, FPdc in each st until center, 3 dc in middle stitch of tip, continue to FPdc in each st to the end, turn. 
Row 14. Ch 3, dc in same st, CL in each st until the center, in tip place (ch 3, cluster, ch 3), continue to CL along the other side until 1 st left, 2 dc in last st, turn.
Row 15. Ch 4, 2 tr in same st, ch 2, *(tr in top of CL st, ch 2); rep * to center, in tip place (in ch before CL: tr, ch 2, in top of CL: tr, ch 2, in ch after CL: tr, ch 2), rep * until 1 st left, 3 tr in last st, turn.
Row 16. Ch 1 (does not count), sc in same st, 2 sc in next, *sc in each tr st and 2 sc in each ch sp; rep * to center, in tip place (3 sc in center tr), rep * until 2 sts left, 2 sc in next st, sc in last st, turn.
Change colors to Point Judith (pink) Color B.
Row 17. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same st, ch 1, sk 1, *v–st, ch 1, sk 1; rep * around to end, the center tip will be the ch 1 between v sts at tip; continue to rep * to 1 st left, v–st in last st, turn. 
Row 18. Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), bo in ch sp of v–st, ch 1, *bo, ch 1; rep * to center, in tip place (bo, ch 1), rep * to 1 st left, dc in last st, turn. .
Row 19. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), *FPdc in each bo, ch 1; rep* to center, at tip bo st place (dc, ch 1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1) in top of bo st, rep * until 1 st left, dc in last st, turn. 
Row 20. Ch 3, sl st to next FPdc, *ch 3, sl st to next FPdc; rep * to center, in tip place (ch 3, sl st to 1st dc, ch 2, dc in 2nd dc, ch 2, sl st to 3rd dc), rep * to end, ch 3, sl st to last st, turn. Change to Color C.
Row 21. This row is worked around the chain spaces from row 19. To do so, insert your hook behind the ch 3 from row 20 and 3 dc around the ch 1 sp from row 19.
Ch 3, *3 dc in each ch 1 space from row 19; rep * to center, in the tip place ch 1 between the two center 3 dc, rep * until 1 st left, dc in last st, turn.
Row 22. Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, *dc in each st; rep* to center, in tip place 3 dc in ch 1 sp, rep * until 2 sts left, 2 dc in next st, dc in last st, turn.
Row 23. Ch 3, FPdc in same st, *FPdc in next st; rep * to center, for the 3 dc in the tip place (FPdc, ch1, FPdc, ch 1, FPdc), rep * to end, turn.
Row 24. Ch 3, dc in same st, ch 2, *CL in next st; rep * to center, in tip place (dc3tog, ch 3 dc3tog, ch 2—start the 2nd CL in the last st of the 1st CL), rep * to end, in last st place (ch 1, dc), turn.
Row 25. Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in same st, ch 2 *tr in top of CL st, ch 2; rep * to center, in tip ch sp place (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2), rep * to last 2 sts, tr in next st, tr in last st, turn.
Row 26. Ch 1 (does not count), sc in same st, *sc in each tr st and 2 sc in each ch sp; rep * to center, in tip place sc in center tr st, rep * to end, turn. 
Change to Color D.
Row 27. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch1), dc in same st, sk 1, *v–st, sk 1; rep * to center, in sc at tip place 2 v–sts, rep * until 1 st left, v–st in last st, turn.
Row 28. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), bo in ch sp of each v–st, ch 1, *bo in next ch 1 sp, ch 1; rep * to center, in tip ch sp place bo, ch 1, rep * until 1 st left, bo, ch 1, dc in last stitch, turn.
Row 29. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), *FPdc in each bo, ch 1; rep * to center, in bo st at tip place (FPdc, ch 1), rep * to 1 st left, dc in last st, turn.
Row 30. Ch 3, sl st to top of FPdc, *ch 3, sl st to top of FPdc; rep * to center, in tip place (ch 3, sl st to FPdc) rep * until 1 st left, ch 3, sl st to last st, turn.
Row 31. This row is worked around the chain spaces from row 29. To do so, insert your hook behind the ch 3 from row 30 and 3 dc around the ch 1 sp from row 29.
Ch 3, *3 dc in each ch 1 space from row 29; rep * to center, in the tip place ch 1 between the two center 3 dc, rep * until 1 st left, dc in last st, turn.
Row 32. Ch 3, *FPdc in next stitch; rep * to center, in tip place 5 dc, rep * to end, turn.
Row 33. Ch 3, dc in same st, *CL in next st; rep * to center, in tip place CL before & after the center—the last st of 1st CL shares 1st st of 2nd CL, rep * until 1 st left, 2 dc in last st, turn.
Row 34. Ch 4 (counts as tr), 2 tr in same st, ch 2, *tr in top of next CL, ch 2; rep * to center, in tip place (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2), rep * until 1 st left, 3 tr in last st, turn.
Row 35. Ch 1 (does not count), sc in same st, *sc in each tr st and 2 sc in each ch sp; rep * to center, in tip place sc in center tr st, rep * to end, turn.
Change to Color A.
Row 36. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch1), dc in same st, sk 1, *v–st, sk 1; rep * to center, in sc at tip place 2 v–sts, rep * until 1 st left, v–st in last st, turn.
Row 37. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), bo in ch sp of each v–st, ch 1, *bo in next ch 1 sp, ch 1; rep * to center, in tip ch sp place bo, ch 1, rep * until 1 st left, bo, ch 1, dc in last stitch, turn.
Row 38. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), *BPdc in each bo st, ch 1; rep * to center, in the tip place BPdc, ch 1, rep * until 1 st left, dc in last stitch, turn.
Change to Color B.
Row 39. *Ch 3, sl st to next BPdc; rep * to center, ch 3, in tip sl st to center BPdc, ch 3, sl st to next st, rep *end, turn.
Row 40. Ch 3, *3 dc in ch 1 sp from row 38 (in between the BPdcs); rep * to center, in the tip: ch 3 between 3 dcs; rep * to 1 st left, dc in last st, turn.
Row 41. Ch 3, *CL in each st; rep * to center; in the tip place CL in center ch 3 sp, rep * until 1 last left, dc in last st, turn.
Row 42. Ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), 2 tr in same st, ch 2, sk ch 2 from row 41, *tr in top of each CL, ch 2; rep * to 1 st before center, place (tr, ch 1) in next st, (tr, ch 1) in center CL, (tr, ch 1) in stafter center, rep * until 1 st left, 3 tr in last st, turn.
Row 43. Ch 1 (does not count), sc in same st, *sc in each tr st and 2 sc in each ch sp; rep * to center, in tip place sc in center tr st, rep * to end, turn.
**If you'd like to add more rows to make it larger, do so here (more yarn will be necessary).
The Edging:
Change to Color C.
Row 44. Ch 3, sk 3, 12 ldc in next st, sk 3, sc in next st, ch 2; *sk 3, 12 ldc in next st, sk 3, sc in next st, ch 2; rep* around, at center tip continue with rep until 1 st left, dc in last st, turn.
Change to Color D.
Row 45. Ch 3, 3 dc in same st, *ch 5, sc in top of the 6th ldc, p, ch 5, 4 dc in ch 2 sp; rep * around; tip will be 4 dc, end with 4 dc in last ch space.
Finish off. Weave in ends.
Block your Shawlette:
Either allow your shawl to soak for 30 mins or spritz it with water until damp.
Lay it out on a large, flat surface (towel covered table or bed) that you can stick pins into.
Smooth out into shape.
Pin along edges to keep in place-every couple of inches.
Allow to dry overnight.
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This is so pretty!!
Just found your blog. Beautiful shawl.
Thanks! This one was so much fun to design and I loved working with the Berroco Modern cotton DK yarn.
Thank you, I loved working on it!
Love he colors!!!Inam pinning for alter. I want one of these for myself.
Thank you! The Berroco color selection is amazing! I hope you enjoy the pattern!
This is beautiful! Wondering what your thoughts on sewing the two long edges together to create a poncho. Would that work? Or would the proportions be off?
Hi Diane! That’s a great question. I think it’s too small as is for a poncho, but if you made it larger then that could work. I like that idea!
Do you have an idea of how many yards this actually requires? I have a 1,000 yd. cake that I would like to use, but don’t know if the yardage would be enough.
Hi Donna, thanks for asking. The Berroco hanks are 353 yds each, which is 1340 yds total. I used almost all of each of them, but one-I was able to make a hat and a little toddler bolero with the rest of that one. Also I know someone used a a cake yarn that was less than 700 yds and it turned out a little short but still worked, she just left off the last rows. So I think 1,000 will be enough! Good luck, I’d love to see it if you want share when you’re done!
Thank you!
Thank you so much
You’re welcome, I hope you enjoy the pattern.
I recently saw this pattern and wasn’t to make it. I see it’s from 2018. It doesn’t look like these cookies are available anymore; except for the Hope from yarn.com. I clicked on the affiliate link and didn’t see any of the colors. I found Coboo at Walmart some similar colors, but I really liked the color combination in your pattern. Can you use Modern cotton DK with Coboo yarns?
Thank you,
Kim Locksley
I forgot to mention my birth families last name is Ottobre. I have met my cousins,and aunts and uncles (sadly all are now deceased), and wanted to make this as a gift for my cousins. Will be perfect to present at the next bi-annual family reunion in PA.
Kim Locksley
Correcting some typos from my post *wanted* to make not wasn’t and *colors* not cookies. Trying to find a video on this pattern. Is there one available?
Thank you,
Kim
Hi Kim,
Coboo yarn should work well for this shawl. The best way to check is to work up a gauge swatch to make sure you’re meeting gauge with your yarn and hook. For this pattern the gauge is 1″/2.5 cm x 1″/2.5cm = 5 dc x 3 rows of dc so you just work a small swatch of double crochets to check it. For more details on gauge I have article here https://christacodesign.com/crochet-gauge-what-is-gauge-how-do-you-measure-it/
I hope this helps!
Crystal
That is so cool! What a thoughtful gift. I hope you enjoy making it!
There isn’t a full video tutorial for this pattern, however there a videos for each of the stitches used which are linked up under the “special stitches” section. Hopefully those are helpful for you!
Thank you Christa for replying and for the information you provided. I’m enjoying it so far-I have started the first section and and just completed the first row of cluster stitches. Yes, I found the tutorials and they are very helpful! Using Coboo beige, mauve, steel blue, and lichen currently. I ordered Berroco Modern Color DK wharf, cliff walk, rocky point, and hope from Amazon. Hopefully those will be close to what you used originally as I really liked the color combination you used! Thank you again-I love the pattern!
Kim
That sounds lovely. Thank you, I really like those colors too and wish I had more of them!