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Crochet Shawlette Pattern | Ottobre Shawlette Crochet Pattern

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The Ottobre Shawlette is a light and lacy crochet shawl pattern. This small shawl features cotton yarn an a mix of beautiful stitches for a truly unique crochet shawlette.

The Ottobre styles beautifully as a triangle scarf, or small summer shawl. Combine colors to create a modern palette of your favorites.

Crochet shawls are so popular to gift. I created this crochet shawlette as a gift for my sister in law.

Crochet shawlette draped on woman's neck like triangle scarf.

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You can purchase the ad-free, well formatted PDF Pattern in one of my shops. Scroll down for the free pattern!

ETSY
RAVELRY

She has an October birthday which means chilly mornings and evenings with warm afternoons. This Berroco Modern Cotton DK was a great fit for my shawlette.

I love working with this silky soft cotton yarn. I’m ready to create even more crochet wearables with it.

The Ottobre Shawlette is perfect for fall or spring, as it’s not too heavy and it’s on the smaller side. It can be worn as a lightweight wrap or a scarf.

Crochet shawlette with picot edging hanging.

I love how all the textures and open spaces work so well together. I chose four colors to alternate throughout in different size stripes.

I think all the texture in this shawlette would also add interest to a single solid color yarn as well. I’d love to see what colors you choose to crochet your own Ottobre Shawlette-Berroco has such a gorgeous selection!

I also paired this shawlette with this stunning pin * from Polymer Playin. The copper and green are amazing together. And even though it came from Canada it came quickly, with in 10 days.

Woman in multicolored, lacy shawlette.

Materials:

400g/14oz, 1224m/1340 yds of dk weight #3 light cotton yarn, I used Berroco Modern Cotton DK,* 1 skein each of: Chepstow (brown), Point Judith (pink), Elms (green) and Hope (blue).

3.75mm US Size F/5 crochet hook,* or hook needed to meet gauge

yarn needle

scissors

measuring tape

Notes

The Ottobre Shawlette begins as a basic granny triangle so it’s easy to start.

You will turn at the end of each row.

Beginning chains count as stitches unless otherwise stated in the pattern.

Finished Shawlette Dimensions:

27″ down the spine to the tip & 55″ across the top of the wingspan.

This shawlette can easily be enlarged but requires more yarn: 1-2 more hanks of the suggested yarn should make it a full size shawl.

Gauge:

1″/2.5 cm x 1″/2.5cm = 5 dc x 3 rows of dc

Crochet shawlette in browns, blues, greens and pink.

Special Stitches:

Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC): insert your hook in from the front around the post of the stitch, back to the front and then work a double crochet.

Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC): made the same way you make the FPDC, but instead of inserting your hook in from the front around the post of the stitch you insert your hook from the back around the post and form a double crochet.

Cluster Stitch: The double crochet cluster starts like a dc3tog, but then you chain 2 to make up for the decreasing. See the full tutorial here.

Fan Stitch: chain the specified amount, skip the specified amount of stitches, into the stitch to be worked place 12 long double crochet stitches.

Long Double Crochet (ldc): yarn over, insert hook into stitch to be worked, pull up a loop-pull the loop taller than normal, then yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over again and pull through last two to complete stitch.

Treble Crochet Stitch (trc): yarn over twice, insert your hook into stitch to be worked, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over & pull through two loops, yarn over & pull through two, yarn over and pull through last two loops on hook.

V-stitch: double crochet, chain 1, double crochet in same stitch

Bobble stitch: yarn over, insert hook into stitch to be worked, yarn over & pull up a loop, yarn over & pull through two loops; working into the same stitch repeat 4 more times; you will have 6 loops on the hook, yarn over & pull through all of them, ch 1 to close the bobble.

Picot: sc, chain 5, slip stitch back to 1st chain

crochet shawlette

Pin it for later here:

Pin image with text Ottobre Shawlette.

You can purchase the ad-free, well formatted PDF Pattern in one of my shops. Scroll down for the free pattern!

ETSY
RAVELRY

The Shawlette Pattern:

Progress of crochet shawlette triangle.

Ottobre Shawlette Free Crochet Pattern and Tutorial

Yield: 1
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Active Time: 4 hours
Additional Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 4 hours 10 minutes
Difficulty: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $40

Crochet the Ottobre Shawlette a lightweight summer scarf featuring a mix of interesting stitches.

Materials

  • 400g/14oz, 1224m/1340 yds of dk weight #3 light cotton yarn, I used Berroco Modern Cotton DK,* 1 skein each of: Chepstow (brown), Point Judith (pink), Elms (green) and Hope (blue).

Tools

  • 3.75mm US Size F/5 crochet hook,* or hook needed to meet gauge
  • yarn needle
  • scissors
  • measuring tape

Instructions

    Color A

      1. Row 1: Ch 3, slip stitch to first to create a circle. Ch 2 (counts as dc), 2dc, ch 1, 3dc, ch 3 (tip), 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, turn. Row 1 triangle crochet shawlette.
      2. Row 2: Ch 2, dc in same, ch 1, in ch 1 space from previous row: 3 dc, ch 1; into ch 3 space from previous row (tip): 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1; into next ch space from previous row: 3 dc, ch 1, into last stitch: 2 dc, turn.
      3. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), then into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; in ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1 into chain space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; dc into the last stitch, turn.Triangle through row 3 crochet shawlette.
      4. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc = ch 1), into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch3, 3 dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; dc in last, turn.Granny triangle through row 4.
      5. Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 4X, into ch 3 tip space: 3dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 4X, dc into last, turn.Double crochets at end of row 5.
      6. Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 5X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 5X, dc into last, turn.First six rows of triangle for crochet shawlette.
      7. Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 6X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 6X, dc into last, turn.
      8. Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 7X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 7X, dc into last, turn.
      9. Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 8X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 8X, dc into last, turn.
      10. Row 10: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 9X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 9X, dc into last, turn.
      11. Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 10X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from *10X, dc into last, turn.Crochet shawlette start with brown yarn.
      12. Row 12: Ch 2, (counts as dc), in ch space: 2 dc; 1 dc into every stitch (all dcs & chs); tip: 1 dc in 1st ch, 3dc into 2nd chain & 1 dc in 3rd ch; continue dc into every stitch to 2nd to last stitch-in this one place 2 dc & 1 dc in the last stitch, turn.Center of crochet shawlette.
      13. Row 13. Ch 2 (counts as dc), FPdc in each stitch, 3 dc in middle stitch of tip, continue FPDC in each stitch to the end, turn.Ends with 3 dc in last stitch.Post stitches in crochet shawlette.Crochet shawlette turned to show ridge.
      14. Row 14. Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in same, cluster stitch: (DC3tog + ch 2) along the row; in the tip: ch 3, cluster, ch 3; continue to cluster stitch along the other side, end with 2 dc in last stitch.Large mesh row in crochet shawlette.
      15. Row 15. Ch 4 (counts as 1st treble stitch), trc 2X in same stitch, ch 2, (trc, ch 2) into top of each cluster stitch; in tip: trc, ch2 in chain before cluster, trc, ch 2 in top of cluster, trc, ch 2 in chain after cluster; continue trc, ch 2 in top of each cluster, 3 trc in last, turn.
      16. Row 16. Ch 1 (does not count) sc in the same, 2 sc in the next, (sc in each trc stitch and 2sc in each ch space) continue around; in the tip: 3 sc in center trc stitch, continue (sc in each trc and 2sc in each ch space) until 2nd to last stitch, in which you’ll add 2 sc and 1 sc into the last stitch, turn.Pink stitches in crochet shawlette. Change to Color B.
      17. Row 17. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same, ch 1, skp 1, *v-stitch: {dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, skp 1} repeat from * around; the tip: will be the chain 1 between v stitches; continue the *v-stitch: {dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, skp 1} around; v-stitch in last stitch, turn.Bobble stitches in crochet shawlette.
      18. Row 18. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 2), bobble stitch in ch space of v stitch, ch 1 (bobble is closed with a ch 1 + another ch 1 is written in the pattern since the 1st ch 1 is included in the bobble stitch); *{bobble, ch 1} repeat from * around; in the tip: (bobble, ch 1) into ch space; end with a dc into the last stitch, turn.Bobble stitches in crochet shawlette.Front post and bobbles crochet shawlette.
      19. Row 19. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{FPDC around top of each bobble, ch 1} repeat from * around; around tip bobble stitch: dc, ch 1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1 into top of bobble; continue repeat of *{FPDC around top of each bobble, ch 1} end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.Triangle shawl through row 19.
      20. Row 20. Ch 3, slip stitch to top of FPDC from last row, *{ch 3, ss to top of FPDC from last row} repeat from * around; in tip: ch 3, ss to 1st dc, ch 2, dc to 2nd dc, ch 2, ss to 3rd dc; continue *{ch 3, ss to top of FPDC from last row} to end; ch 3, ss to last stitch, turn. Change to Color C.
      21. Row 21. This row is worked around the chain spaces from row 19. To do so, insert your hook behind the ch 3 from row 20 and 3 dc around the ch 1 space from row 19.Crochet behind previous row.Hook inserted behind stitches.Ch 2 (counts as dc), *{3 dc around each ch 1 space from row 19}; for the tip: add a ch 1 between the two center 3 dc; continue to repeat *{3 dc around each ch 1 space from row 19}; end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.Beige, pink and blue on shawl.
      22. Row 22. Ch 2 (counts as dc), 2 dc in the next stitch, dc in each stitch around; tip: 3 dc in ch 1 space; continue to dc in each stitch around; 2dc in 2nd to last stitch, dc in last, turn.
      23. Row 23. Ch 2, in the same stitch FPDC and then FPDC in each stitch around; for the 3 dc in the tip: FPDC, ch1, FPDC, ch 1, FPDC; continue to FPDC in each stitch til end, turn.
      24. Row 24. Ch 3 & dc in same, *{ch 2, cluster stitch} repeat from * around; in the tip: cluster, ch 3 cluster (start the 2nd cluster in the last stitch of the 1st cluster); repeat *{ch 2, cluster} to end; add ch 1 & dc into last stitch, turn.
      25. Row 25. Ch 4 (counts as trc), trc in same stitch, ch 2 *{trc into top of each cluster, ch 2} repeat from * around; in center tip ch space: (trc, ch 2) 3X; continue repeat of *{trc into top of each cluster, ch 2} to end; 1 trc in each of last two stitches, turn.
      26. Row 26. Ch 1 (does not count) sc in the same, (sc in each trc stitch and 2sc in each ch space) continue around; in the tip: 1 sc in center trc stitch, continue (sc in each trc and 2sc in each ch space) until last stitch, turn.Open treble stitches in blue. Change to Color D.
      27. Row 27. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch1), dc in same, skp1, in next: *{v-stitch, skp 1, v-stitch} repeat * around; in the center tip sc place 2 v-sts; continue *{v-stitch, skp 1 v-stitch} to end; last stitch will be a v-stitch, turn.
      28. Row 28. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch1), bobble in each v-stitch ch 1 space, ch 1; *{bobble, ch 1} around in each v-stitch; in tip; bobble, ch 1 in center ch sp from last row; continue *{bobble, ch 1 in v-stitches} around to end; bobble, ch 1, dc in last stitch, turn.
      29. Row 29. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{FPDC around top of each bobble, ch 1} repeat from * around; around tip bobble stitch: FPDC around center bobble, ch 1; continue repeat of *{FPDC around top of each bobble, ch 1} end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.
      30. Row 30. Ch 3, slip stitch to top of FPDC from last row, *{ch 3, ss to top of FPDC from last row} repeat from * around; in tip: ch 3, ss to FPDC; continue *{ch 3, ss to top of FPDC from last row} to end; ch 3, ss to last stitch, turn.
      31. Row 31. See note from row 21. Ch 2 (counts as dc), *{3 dc around each ch 1 space from row 29}; for the tip: ch 3; continue to repeat *{3 dc around each ch 1 space from row 29}; end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.
      32. Row 32. Ch 3, FPDC around each stitch; in tip: 5 DC; continue FPDC around each stitch to end, turn.
      33. Row 33. Ch 3, dc into the same st, cluster stitch around; in tip: cluster before & after the center-the last stitch of 1st cluster shares 1st stitch of 2nd cluster; continue to cluster stitch til end; 2 dc in last stitch, turn.
      34. Row 34. Ch 4 (counts as trc), 2 trc in same, ch 2, *{trc into the top of each cluster stitch, ch 2} repeat from * around; tip: (trc, ch2) 3X; continue repeat of *{trc, ch 2} in each cluster til end; 3 trc in last stitch, turn.
      35. Row 35. Ch 1, sc in each trc stitch and 2 sc into each ch 2 space, continue to end, turn.Close up of green rows repeating crochet shawlette stitches. Change to Color A.Complete rows with border in blue and green.
      36. Row 36. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch1), dc in same, skp1, in next: *{v-stitch, skp 1, v-stitch} repeat * around; v-stitch in the tip; continue *{v-stitch, skp 1 v-stitch} to end; last stitch will be a v-stitch, turn.
      37. Row 37. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 2), *{bobble in each v-stitch ch 1 space from row 36, ch 1} repeat from * around; one bobble in the center tip; continue *{bobble in each v-stitch ch 1 space from row 36, ch 1} repeat from * around; end with a bobble, ch 1 and dc in the last stitch, turn.
      38. Row 38. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{BPDC around each bobble stitch, ch 1} repeat from * around; in the tip: BPDC around the center bobble, ch 1; continue *{BPDC around each bobble stitch, ch 1} repeat from * around; end with a dc in the last stitch, turn. Change to Color B.Center with two fan stitches.
      39. Row 39. *{Ch 3, ss to top of each BPDC} repeat from * around; in the tip ch 3 & ss to center BPDC, ch 3, ss to next; continue *{Ch 3, ss to top of each BPDC} repeat from * around; end with Ch 3, ss to last BPDC, turn.
      40. Row 40. Ch 2 (counts as dc), *{3dc around ch 1 space from row 38 (in between the BPDCs)} repeat * around; in the tip: ch 3 between 3dcs; continue *{3dc around ch 1 space from row 38 (in between the BPDCs)} repeat * around; end with (3 dcs, ch 1) in last ch space, dc in last stitch, turn.
      41. Row 41. Ch 2 (counts as dc), Cluster stitch (dc3tog + ch 2) in each 3dc around; in the tip: cluster in center ch 3 space; continue to cluster stitch in each 3dc around; end with a dc in last, turn.
      42. Row 42. Ch 4 (counts as 1st trc), 2trc in same stitch, ch 2, skp ch 2 from row 41, *{trc into top of each cluster, ch 2} repeat from * around; in tip: (trc, ch 1) in stitch before center, (trc, ch 1) in center cluster, (trc, ch 1) in stitch after center; continue *{trc into top of each cluster, ch 2} repeat from * around; end with 3trc in last stitch, turn.
      43. Row 43. Ch 1 (doesn’t count), sc in each trc and 2sc in each chain space around, turn.

        **If you’d like to add more rows to make it larger, do so here (more yarn will be necessary).

        44. The Edging:

        Change to Color C.

        12 double crochet fan stitch.

        Row 44. Ch 3, skp 3, in the 4th stitch crochet a fan (12 long dc), skp 3, in the 4th stitch sc to secure the fan, ch 2; *{skp 3, in 4th stitch 12 ldc, skp 3, sc into 4th st, ch 2} repeat * around; tip: one fan will be placed before the center and one fan will come after; end with a dc in the last stitch, turn. Change to Color D.Last row in green of shawl.

        45. Ch 3, 3dc in same stitch, *{ch 5, sc into the top of the 6th ldc of the fan from row 44, picot (ch 5, ss to 1st ch), ch 5, 4dc into ch 2 space from row 44} repeat * around; tip will be 4dc; end with 4 dc in last ch space.

        Finish off. Weave in ends.

        Block your Shawlette:Block shawlette.

        1. Either allow your shawlette to soak for 30 mins or spritz it with water until damp.
        2. Lay it out on a large, flat, clean (hard to find, right?!) that you can stick pins into. I used the carpeted floor under the table.
        3. Smooth your shawlette out into shape.
        4. Pin along edges to keep in place-every couple of inches.
        5. Allow your beautiful shawlette to dry overnight.
        6. Eccola! Wrap yourself in the gorgeous shawlette you crocheted or gift it to a friend!



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© ChristaCoDesign
Project Type: Crochet Shawl / Category: Shawls

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13 Comments

  3. Thanks! This one was so much fun to design and I loved working with the Berroco Modern cotton DK yarn.

  7. This is beautiful! Wondering what your thoughts on sewing the two long edges together to create a poncho. Would that work? Or would the proportions be off?

  8. Hi Diane! That’s a great question. I think it’s too small as is for a poncho, but if you made it larger then that could work. I like that idea!

  9. Do you have an idea of how many yards this actually requires? I have a 1,000 yd. cake that I would like to use, but don’t know if the yardage would be enough.

  10. Hi Donna, thanks for asking. The Berroco hanks are 353 yds each, which is 1340 yds total. I used almost all of each of them, but one-I was able to make a hat and a little toddler bolero with the rest of that one. Also I know someone used a a cake yarn that was less than 700 yds and it turned out a little short but still worked, she just left off the last rows. So I think 1,000 will be enough! Good luck, I’d love to see it if you want share when you’re done!