I created this crochet shawlette as a gift for my sister in law. She has an October birthday which means chilly mornings and evenings with warm afternoons, so this Berroco Modern Cotton DK was a great fit for my shawlette. I love working with this silky soft cotton yarn. I’m ready to create even more crochet wearables with it.
The Ottobre Shawlette is perfect for fall or spring, as it’s not too heavy and it’s on the smaller side. It can be worn as a lightweight wrap or a scarf. I love how all the textures and open spaces work so well together. I chose four colors to alternate throughout in different size stripes. I think all the texture in this shawlette would also add interest to a single solid color yarn as well. I’d love to see what colors you choose to crochet your own Ottobre Shawlette-Berroco has such a gorgeous selection!
{*affiliates-This post contains affiliate links which means I receive a small fee if you click through and make a purchase through my links (at no additional cost to you) these allow me to keep new free patterns coming to you! Thank you for your support!}
I also paired this shawlette with this stunning pin * from Polymer Playin. The copper and green are amazing together. And even though it came from Canada it came quickly, with in 10 days.
Click here to purchase an ad-free pdf of this pattern in my Etsy shop!
Materials:
400g/14oz, 1224m/1340 yds of dk weight #3 light cotton yarn, I used Berroco Modern Cotton DK 1 each of: Chepstow (brown), Point Judith (pink), Elms (green) and Hope (blue).
scissors
Finished Shawlette Dimensions: 27″ down the spine to the tip & 55″ across the top of the wingspan. This shawlette can easily be enlarged but requires more yarn: 1-2 more hanks of the suggested yarn should make it a full size shawl.
Gauge:
1″x1″ = 5dc x 3 rows
Special Stitches:
Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC): tutorial here
Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC): made the same way you make the FPDC, but instead of inserting your hook in from the front around the post of the stitch you insert your hook from the back around the post and form a double crochet.
Cluster Stitch: tutorial here
Fan Stitch: chain the specified amount, skip the specified amount of stitches, into the stitch to be worked place 12 long double crochet stitches.
Long Double Crochet (ldc): yarn over, insert hook into stitch to be worked, pull up a loop-pull the loop taller than normal, then yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over again and pull through last two to complete stitch.
Treble Crochet Stitch (trc): yarn over twice, insert your hook into stitch to be worked, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over & pull through two loops, yarn over & pull through two, yarn over and pull through last two loops on hook.
V-stitch: double crochet, chain 1, double crochet in same stitch
Bobble stitch: yarn over, insert hook into stitch to be worked, yarn over & pull up a loop, yarn over & pull through two loops; working into the same stitch repeat 4 more times; you will have 6 loops on the hook, yarn over & pull through all of them, ch 1 to close the bobble.
Picot: sc, chain 5, slip stitch back to 1st chain
The Shawlette Pattern:
The Ottobre Shawlette begins as a basic granny triangle so it’s easy to start. You will turn at the end of each row. Beginning chains count as stitches unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
Begin with the color Chepstow (brown)-Color A.
Row 1: Chain 3, slip stitch to first to create a circle. Ch 2 (counts as dc), 2dc, ch 1, 3dc, ch 3 (tip), 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, dc in same, ch 1, in ch 1 space from previous row: 3 dc, ch 1; into ch 3 space from previous row (tip): 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1; into next ch space from previous row: 3 dc, ch 1, into last stitch: 2 dc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), then into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; in ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 1 into chain space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; dc into the last stitch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc = ch 1), into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch3, 3 dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; into ch 1 space from previous row: 3dc, ch 1; dc in last, turn.
R 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 4X, into ch 3 tip space: 3dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 4X, dc into last, turn.
R 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 5X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 5X, dc into last, turn.
Join my email list below and receive access to all the free printable pdf patterns (including this one!) in the ChristaCoDesign Resource Library.
7: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 6X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 6X, dc into last, turn.
8: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 7X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 7X, dc into last, turn.
9: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 8X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 8X, dc into last, turn.
10: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 9X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from * 9X, dc into last, turn.
11: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{3 dc, ch} repeat from * 10X, into ch 3 tip space: 3 dc, ch 3, 3dc, ch 1; *{3 dc, ch 1} repeat from *10X, dc into last, turn.
12: Ch 2, (counts as dc), in ch space: 2 dc; 1 dc into every stitch (all dcs & chs); tip: 1 dc in 1st ch, 3dc into 2nd chain & 1 dc in 3rd ch; continue dc into every stitch to 2nd to last stitch-in this one place 2 dc & 1 dc in the last stitch, turn.
13. Ch 2 (counts as dc), FPDC in each stitch, 3 dc in middle stitch of tip, continue FPDC in each stitch to the end, turn.
14. Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in same, cluster stitch: (DC3tog + ch 2) along the row; in the tip: ch 3, cluster, ch 3; continue to cluster stitch along the other side, end with 2 dc in last stitch.
15. Ch 4 (counts as 1st treble stitch), trc 2X in same stitch, ch 2, (trc, ch 2) into top of each cluster stitch; in tip: trc, ch2 in chain before cluster, trc, ch 2 in top of cluster, trc, ch 2 in chain after cluster; continue trc, ch 2 in top of each cluster, 3 trc in last, turn.
16. Ch 1 (does not count) sc in the same, 2 sc in the next, (sc in each trc stitch and 2sc in each ch space) continue around; in the tip: 3 sc in center trc stitch, continue (sc in each trc and 2sc in each ch space) until 2nd to last stitch, in which you’ll add 2 sc and 1 sc into the last stitch, turn.
Change colors to Point Judith (pink)-Color B; see my Dr. Seuss crochet bookmark for color changing tips here
17. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same, ch 1, skp 1, *v-stitch: {dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, skp 1} repeat from * around; the tip: will be the chain 1 between v stitches; continue the *v-stitch: {dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, skp 1} around; v-stitch in last stitch, turn.
18. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 2), bobble stitch in ch space of v stitch, ch 1 (bobble is closed with a ch 1 + another ch 1 is written in the pattern since the 1st ch 1 is included in the bobble stitch); *{bobble, ch 1} repeat from * around; in the tip: (bobble, ch 1) into ch space; end with a dc into the last stitch, turn.
19. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{FPDC around top of each bobble, ch 1} repeat from * around; around tip bobble stitch: dc, ch 1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1 into top of bobble; continue repeat of *{FPDC around top of each bobble, ch 1} end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.
20. Ch 3, slip stitch to top of FPDC from last row, *{ch 3, ss to top of FPDC from last row} repeat from * around; in tip: ch 3, ss to 1st dc, ch 2, dc to 2nd dc, ch 2, ss to 3rd dc; continue *{ch 3, ss to top of FPDC from last row} to end; ch 3, ss to last stitch, turn.
Change colors to Hope (blue)-Color C.
21. This row is worked around the chain spaces from row 19. To do so, insert your hook behind the ch 3 from row 20 and 3 dc around the ch 1 space from row 19.
Ch 2 (counts as dc), *{3 dc around each ch 1 space from row 19}; for the tip: add a ch 1 between the two center 3 dc; continue to repeat *{3 dc around each ch 1 space from row 19}; end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.
22. Ch 2 (counts as dc), 2 dc in the next stitch, dc in each stitch around; tip: 3 dc in ch 1 space; continue to dc in each stitch around; 2dc in 2nd to last stitch, dc in last, turn.
23. Ch 2, in the same stitch FPDC and then FPDC in each stitch around; for the 3 dc in the tip: FPDC, ch1, FPDC, ch 1, FPDC; continue to FPDC in each stitch til end, turn.
24. Ch 3 & dc in same, *{ch 2, cluster stitch} repeat from * around; in the tip: cluster, ch 3 cluster (start the 2nd cluster in the last stitch of the 1st cluster); repeat *{ch 2, cluster} to end; add ch 1 & dc into last stitch, turn.
25. Ch 4 (counts as trc), trc in same stitch, ch 2 *{trc into top of each cluster, ch 2} repeat from * around; in center tip ch space: (trc, ch 2) 3X; continue repeat of *{trc into top of each cluster, ch 2} to end; 1 trc in each of last two stitches, turn.
26. Ch 1 (does not count) sc in the same, (sc in each trc stitch and 2sc in each ch space) continue around; in the tip: 1 sc in center trc stitch, continue (sc in each trc and 2sc in each ch space) until last stitch, turn.
Change colors to Elms (green)-Color D.
27. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch1), dc in same, skp1, in next: *{v-stitch, skp 1, v-stitch} repeat * around; in the center tip sc place 2 v-sts; continue *{v-stitch, skp 1 v-stitch} to end; last stitch will be a v-stitch, turn.
28. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch1), bobble in each v-stitch ch 1 space, ch 1; *{bobble, ch 1} around in each v-stitch; in tip; bobble, ch 1 in center ch sp from last row; continue *{bobble, ch 1 in v-stitches} around to end; bobble, ch 1, dc in last stitch, turn.
29. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{FPDC around top of each bobble, ch 1} repeat from * around; around tip bobble stitch: FPDC around center bobble, ch 1; continue repeat of *{FPDC around top of each bobble, ch 1} end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.
30. Ch 3, slip stitch to top of FPDC from last row, *{ch 3, ss to top of FPDC from last row} repeat from * around; in tip: ch 3, ss to FPDC; continue *{ch 3, ss to top of FPDC from last row} to end; ch 3, ss to last stitch, turn.
31. See note from row 21. Ch 2 (counts as dc), *{3 dc around each ch 1 space from row 29}; for the tip: ch 3; continue to repeat *{3 dc around each ch 1 space from row 29}; end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.
32. Ch 3, FPDC around each stitch; in tip: 5 DC; continue FPDC around each stitch to end, turn.
33. Ch 3, dc into the same st, cluster stitch around; in tip: cluster before & after the center-the last stitch of 1st cluster shares 1st stitch of 2nd cluster; continue to cluster stitch til end; 2 dc in last stitch, turn.
34. Ch 4 (counts as trc), 2 trc in same, ch 2, *{trc into the top of each cluster stitch, ch 2} repeat from * around; tip: (trc, ch2) 3X; continue repeat of *{trc, ch 2} in each cluster til end; 3 trc in last stitch, turn.
35. Ch 1, sc in each trc stitch and 2 sc into each ch 2 space, continue to end, turn.
Change to Color A.
36. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch1), dc in same, skp1, in next: *{v-stitch, skp 1, v-stitch} repeat * around; v-stitch in the tip; continue *{v-stitch, skp 1 v-stitch} to end; last stitch will be a v-stitch, turn.
37. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 2), *{bobble in each v-stitch ch 1 space from row 36, ch 1} repeat from * around; one bobble in the center tip; continue *{bobble in each v-stitch ch 1 space from row 36, ch 1} repeat from * around; end with a bobble, ch 1 and dc in the last stitch, turn.
38. Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), *{BPDC around each bobble stitch, ch 1} repeat from * around; in the tip: BPDC around the center bobble, ch 1; continue *{BPDC around each bobble stitch, ch 1} repeat from * around; end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.
Change to Color B.
39. *{Ch 3, ss to top of each BPDC} repeat from * around; in the tip ch 3 & ss to center BPDC, ch 3, ss to next; continue *{Ch 3, ss to top of each BPDC} repeat from * around; end with Ch 3, ss to last BPDC, turn.
40. Ch 2 (counts as dc), *{3dc around ch 1 space from row 38 (in between the BPDCs)} repeat * around; in the tip: ch 3 between 3dcs; continue *{3dc around ch 1 space from row 38 (in between the BPDCs)} repeat * around; end with (3 dcs, ch 1) in last ch space, dc in last stitch, turn.
41. Ch 2 (counts as dc), Cluster stitch (dc3tog + ch 2) in each 3dc around; in the tip: cluster in center ch 3 space; continue to cluster stitch in each 3dc around; end with a dc in last, turn.
42. Ch 4 (counts as 1st trc), 2trc in same stitch, ch 2, skp ch 2 from row 41, *{trc into top of each cluster, ch 2} repeat from * around; in tip: (trc, ch 1) in stitch before center, (trc, ch 1) in center cluster, (trc, ch 1) in stitch after center; continue *{trc into top of each cluster, ch 2} repeat from * around; end with 3trc in last stitch, turn.
43. Ch 1 (doesn’t count), sc in each trc and 2sc in each chain space around, turn.
**If you’d like to add more rows to make it larger, do so here (more yarn will be necessary).
The Edging:
Change to Color C.
44. Ch 3, skp 3, in the 4th stitch crochet a fan (12 long dc), skp 3, in the 4th stitch sc to secure the fan, ch 2; *{skp 3, in 4th stitch 12 ldc, skp 3, sc into 4th st, ch 2} repeat * around; tip: one fan will be placed before the center and one fan will come after; end with a dc in the last stitch, turn.
Change to Color D.
45. Ch 3, 3dc in same stitch, *{ch 5, sc into the top of the 6th ldc of the fan from row 44, picot (ch 5, ss to 1st ch), ch 5, 4dc into ch 2 space from row 44} repeat * around; tip will be 4dc; end with 4 dc in last ch space.
Finish off. Weave in ends.
Block your Shawlette:
- Either allow your shawlette to soak for 30 mins or spritz it with water until damp.
- Lay it out on a large, flat, clean (hard to find, right?!) that you can stick pins into. I used the carpeted floor under the table.
- Smooth your shawlette out into shape.
- Pin along edges to keep in place-every couple of inches.
- Allow your beautiful shawlette to dry overnight.
Eccola! Wrap yourself in the gorgeous shawlette you crocheted or gift it to a friend!
Please don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions about the Ottobre Shawlette.
Pin it for later here:
This is so pretty!!
Thank you, I loved working on it!
Just found your blog. Beautiful shawl.
Thanks! This one was so much fun to design and I loved working with the Berroco Modern cotton DK yarn.
Love he colors!!!Inam pinning for alter. I want one of these for myself.
Thank you! The Berroco color selection is amazing! I hope you enjoy the pattern!
This is beautiful! Wondering what your thoughts on sewing the two long edges together to create a poncho. Would that work? Or would the proportions be off?
Hi Diane! That’s a great question. I think it’s too small as is for a poncho, but if you made it larger then that could work. I like that idea!
Do you have an idea of how many yards this actually requires? I have a 1,000 yd. cake that I would like to use, but don’t know if the yardage would be enough.
Hi Donna, thanks for asking. The Berroco hanks are 353 yds each, which is 1340 yds total. I used almost all of each of them, but one-I was able to make a hat and a little toddler bolero with the rest of that one. Also I know someone used a a cake yarn that was less than 700 yds and it turned out a little short but still worked, she just left off the last rows. So I think 1,000 will be enough! Good luck, I’d love to see it if you want share when you’re done!
Thank you!