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Positano Pocket Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

Positano Pocket Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

I’m so excited to introduce to you the Positano Pocket Cardigan! I finished this before Thanksgiving, but I’m just now publishing the pattern. Life got a little tough when we all got sick one after the other over the 6 weeks after Thanksgiving. So I couldn’t get back to this one until well after the new year. But here we are and it’s ready for you!

I set out to design a cardigan that would be a bit warmer than some crochet sweaters, so I knew I needed to keep the stitch tight. I chose the spider stitch, which is just a sc v-stitch. Don’t worry there’s a video for that if it’s new to you! But I also don’t like to crochet tight-it hurts my hands and I like my clothes to have drape, so I upped the hook size a bit to compensate. And it’s a lovely combination, I think.

Can we talk about the yarn a minute? This gorgeous dark pink is called Chai in Red Heart’s Amore Yarn. It is so soft and easy to work with-no splitting. It’s a polyester yarn (yay for washable!) and responded well to steam blocking. I liked my cardigan when I finished it, but once I blocked it-I.loved.it. The stitches relaxed a bit and you could just see the yarn settle into itself. I’m so glad I choose it.

The Giveaway is closed but join my email list to learn about the next one!

To kick off this pattern release I’m giving away 12 balls of Red Heart Amore Yarn! Scroll downtown to the bottom (after my sign off) and enter for a chance to win. Runs 3/4-3/11, US entries only.

This cardigan has a classic fit that is comfortable with some room, 5” of positive ease. The front panels overlap and can be secured by adding buttons, using a shawl pin or worn open.

The scoop neck is designed to allow for pairing with your favorite cowl, scarf or turtle neck. My favorite ways to wear my cardigan are shown here 👆around the house I wear it loose and open. When I go out I add my favorite cowl {the Charisma Cowl Pattern can be found here}, or if it’s not that cold I use one of the lovely handmade pins I was gifted. You can read more about my pindecision 😂 here 👇

The length falls just past the bottom, but is easily adjustable by adding/subtracting rows to all panels before beginning the scoop neck decreases or adding more hem rows. One of my marvelous testers made a cropped version that is just stunning.

My favorite part of this cardigan are the pockets! They are seamed into the sides and are perfectly placed to keep your hands warm. Pockets are optional and can easily be left off.

The sleeves are worked from the wrist up so they are easy to try on as you go and make any adjustments, should you prefer a slimmer or roomier sleeve.

This pattern is written for sizes S (M, L, XL, 2X). Target Measurements for each piece are included which make adjusting for your tastes or size easier. Stitch multiple is also included.

The video tutorials are for the stitch used and several for the techniques used on the sleeves. Check them out here: Positano Pocket Cardigan Video Playlist. The videos are for the purposes of illustrating how the technique is done. All measurements, stitch counts, etc. are in the written pattern.

Gauge swatch instructions are included. Please do a gauge swatch to check your tension. It is easy to adjust your hook size before beginning. This also allows you to get familiar with the spider stitch.

If you prefer the pdf version you can purchase them in my Ravelry or Etsy shops. Two pdfs are included, one with photos and one without for a more printer friendly version.

{*affiliates-This post contains affiliate links which means I receive a small fee if you click through and make a purchase through my links (at no additional cost to you) these allow me to keep new free patterns coming to you! Thank you for your support!}

Materials

Notes

  1. Skipped chains at the start of the first row will count as 1 st.
  2. Turning chains count as a stitch (ch 2 at the beginning of a row-1 ch for turning and 1 ch counts as a sc). You will work into this ch 2 space on the next row. I recommend marking with a stitch marker to easily see it.
  3. Pattern is written as Sm (M, L, XL, 2X). 
  4. Stitch multiple is an odd number, plus 2 for the starting ch.
  5. When possible measurements and stitch/row counts are given so that if you are unable to meet gauge or need to make adjustments you can do so based on measurements. See Target Measurements Chart.

Video Tutorials

Positano Pocket Cardigan Video Tutorial Playlist

Stitches

ch-chain

ss-slip stitch

sc-single crochet

Spider stitch-all in the same stitch: (sc, ch 1, sc), when working into a spider stitch on Row 2 and on, you will crochet the spider st (sc, ch 1, sc) into the ch 1 space of the previous row’s spider st.

Gauge

2”x 2”=10 sts (3 spider stitches plus 1 sc) x 7 rows

Swatch

Ch 15,

1. In 3rd ch from your hook spider st, sk next ch *{spider st in next ch, sk next ch} rep from * across, sc in last ch, turn. 

2. Ch 2, sk next sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp, *{sk next two sc, spider st into next ch 1 sp} rep from * across, sk last sc, sc into 2nd ch, turn. (20 st)

3. Rep last row until work measures 3-4” tall.

Measure 2” x 2” within swatch, if you’re gauge does not match the listed gauge, go up or down a hook size.

Fit

This cardigan has a classic fit that is comfortable with some room. The front panels overlap, with 5” of ease. The scoop neck is designed to allow for pairing with your favorite cowl, scarf or turtle neck. The length falls just past the bottom, but is easily adjustable by adding/subtracting rows to all panels before beginning the scoop neck decreases.

Target Measurements

SizeBust “Back Panel Width “Front Panel Width “Panel Length ” Sleeve Length ” w/o ribbing #Rows after ribbing# Spider St on Cuff
SM34191026176017
M38211126.5186317
L42231227196618
XL46251327196718
2X50271428207019

Pattern

Back Panel

Ch 69 (75, 81, 87, 93)

  1. (RS) In 3rd ch from your hook spider st, sk next ch *{spider st in next ch, sk next ch} rep from * across, sc in last ch, turn. 101 (107, 113, 119, 125) sts
  2. Ch 2, sk next sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp, *{sk next two sc, spider st into next ch 1 sp} rep from * across, sk last sc, sc into 2nd ch, turn.
  3. Rep last row for a total of 91 (93, 95, 95, 98) rows or until panel length is 26 (26.5, 27, 27, 28)”. FO, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Left (when wearing) Front Panel

Ch 37 (41, 45, 51, 55)

  1. (RS) In 3rd ch from your hook spider st, sk next ch *{spider st in next ch, sk next ch} rep from * across, sc in last ch, turn. 53 (59, 65, 74, 80) sts
  2. Ch 2, sk next sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp, *{sk next two sc, spider st into next ch 1 sp} rep from * across, sk last sc, sc into 2nd ch, turn.
  3. Rep last row for a total of 80 (82, 84, 84, 87) rows or 23 (23.5, 24, 24, 25)”.

Left Scoop Neck Decrease: (row count starts over for decrease section)

  1. Ch 2, sk next sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp, *{sk next two sc, spider st into next ch 1 sp} rep from * until last 16 sts, sk next sc, sc into next sc, turn. You will leave the rest of this row unworked, about 3”. 38 (44, 50, 59, 65) sts
  2. Ch 2, sk next sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp, *{sk next two sc, spider st into next ch 1 sp} rep from * across, sk last sc, sc into 2nd ch, turn.
  3. Rep last row for a total of 10 rows or 3”. *Back panel and front panels are the same row count and height. FO, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Right (when wearing) Front Panel

Ch 37 (41, 45, 51, 55)

  1. (RS) In 3rd ch from your hook spider st, sk next ch *{spider st in next ch, sk next ch} rep from * across, sc in last ch, turn. 53 (59, 65, 74, 80) sts
  2. Ch 2, sk next sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp, *{sk next two sc, spider st into next ch 1 sp} rep from * across, sk last sc, sc into 2nd ch, turn
  3. Rep last row for a total of 80 (82, 84, 84, 87) rows or 23 (23.5, 24, 24, 25)”.

Right Scoop Neck Decrease: (row count starts over for decrease section)

  1. Ss over 16 sts, or 3”, start here. Ch 2, sk next sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp, *{sk next two sc, spider st into next ch 1 sp} rep from * across, sk last sc, sc into 2nd ch, turn. 53 (59, 65, 74, 80) sts
  2. Ch 2, sk next sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp, *{sk next two sc, spider st into next ch 1 sp} rep from * across, sk last sc, sc into 2nd ch, turn.
  3. Rep last row for a total of 10 rows or 3”. *Back panel and front panels are the same row count and height. FO, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Seam Shoulders

 Lay front panels on top of back panel with right sides (RS) together. Sew front panels to back panel at shoulders. See dotted lines in picture.

Pocket

Make 2

For 5”x12” (shown) pocket Ch 20, or for larger 6” pocket Ch 24

  1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. 
  2. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each st across, turn.
  3. Rep last row till work measures 12” or 14”.

Finish off, leave a long tail for sewing pocket in.

Fold pocket rectangle in half, matching the first and last rows, but leave these unsewn for pocket opening. The fold is the bottom of the pocket. Seam the sides. 

 Pin open pocket end between front and back panels at sides, about 4” up from the bottom hem.

 Sew one side of pocket opening to front panel side and the other side of the pocket opening to the back panel, leaving the pocket open. Repeat on the other side with second pocket. You will tack the pocket corners in place at the very end.

Seam

With RS together, sew sides of front and back panels together up to the pocket, skip pocket and then continue to sew sides together until last 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5)” of panels. This will be the armholes-where you will attach the sleeves. Repeat on other side. 

Sleeve Notes

  1. Sleeves are worked from the wrist up.
  2. You’ll start with a cuff and then crochet onto the top of the cuff.
  3. Sleeves are then worked in the round, but to keep the stitch pattern the same you will TURN after joining each round and work back as you would in rows.
  4. Ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
  5. To increase the sleeve width you will crochet an increase round when indicated, where you will add spider sts close to the beginning and towards the end of the increase round-as written in the pattern.
  6. Do not ch 1 for Round 2 and on, just start the spider st. This keeps the join closed.
  7. Increase rounds will increase by 2 spider sts, or 6 sts total, so 51 becomes 57, which becomes 63 and so forth.

Cuff {Video Tutorial}

Ch 9

  1. Sc in the 2nd ch from your hook & in each ch across. (8)
  2. Ch 1, in blo only sc in each sc across, turn.
  3. Rep last row for a total of 28 (28, 30, 30, 32) rows or 7.5 (7.5, 8, 8, 8.5)”. 

Cut yarn and leave a long tail to seam. Match short ends together and sew up with the tail. Turn right side out and join yarn with a ss to top of cuff.

Sleeve {Video Part 1}

  1. Ch 1, starting in the same place, work 17 (17, 18, 18, 19) total spider stitches around cuff, ss to first sc of first spider st to join, TURN. 51 (51, 54, 54, 57) sts
  2. Beginning in the first ch 1 sp of the first spider st, spider st in each ch 1 sp around, ss to first sc of first spider st to join, TURN. 
  3. Rep Round 2 until you have 15 (15, 10, 9, 8)  rounds total. 

Round 16. (16, 11, 10, 9):

Increase round {Video Part 1 & Part 2}

Spider st in the first ch 1 sp, spider st in the very next sc, sk the next sc, spider st in the next ch 1 sp, *{sk the next two sc, spider st in next ch 1 sp} rep from * around until last 4 sts, spider st in the next sc, sk the next sc, spider st in the last ch 1 sp, ss to first sc of first spider st to join, TURN. (57, 57, 60, 60, 63) sts

***

Rep Round 2 for 15 (15, 10, 9, 8) more rounds.

Rep Increase Round.

***

Continue to repeat rounds between *** until your sleeve has reached a total of 60 (63, 66, 67, 70) rows or 17 (18, 19, 19, 20)” from the ribbing AND is 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5)” inches wide when laid flat. The width needs to match the armhole you left in the sides of your cardigan.

Cut yarn, leave a long tail for sewing sleeves to body.

Seam

Turn cardigan inside out. Keep your sleeves right side out. Place sleeves inside your cardigan, lining up armhole end of sleeve to armhole opening you left in the sides of your cardigan. The right side of your sleeve fabric should be touching the right side of the cardigan fabric. You will be looking at the wrong side of the cardigan. Seam sleeves to cardigan at armhole with yarn needle and long tail you left. Weave in ends.

Neck/Lapel

Notes

  1. Switch to a size smaller hook-5 mm (H)
  2. Ch 3 counts as a dc.
  3. V-stitch: double crochet, chain 1, double crochet all in same stitch
  4. Lapel stitch pattern is a multiple of 3 + 2.

Lay cardigan with front facing you. Ss yarn to top front lapel on your right. 

  1. Ch 3, dc 86 (89, 92, 95, 98) evenly down along length of lapel, turn.
  2. Ch 3, sk next st, v-st in next st, *{sk next two sts, v-stitch in next st} rep from * until last 2 sts, sk next st, dc in last, turn.
  3. Ch 3, dc in each dc and ch st across. Finish off. 

Rep on other lapel but do not finish off after row 3, continue to dc evenly around the neckline. Weave in ends.

Hem

Lay cardigan with front facing you. With 5mm hook, ss yarn to bottom front lapel on your right.

Ch 3, dc evenly around bottom hem. Finish off and weave in all ends.

Finishing

Secure corners of pocket to inside fabric loosely with whip st-this will prevent them sagging or flapping.

Block your cardigan and it’s ready for wear! Add buttons or use a pin to close the front. I’ve opted for a pin as it’s more flexible.

Eccola!

I’d love to see your #positanopocketcardigan tag me @christacodesign on Instagram if you post a pic! Or share it to my Facebook Group, I love to see your work!

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