Sunset Sweater a Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

The Sunset Sweater is a fitted crochet pullover with the coziest cowl neck. The Trinity Stitch lends this crochet sweater its gorgeous texture. Easy to wear everyday or dress up for an evening out. This sweater is so cozy and comfortable. The stitch features really pop in the light colors.

The Sunset Sweater name was inspired by my color choices. Sunset is such a lovely time of night, and a perfect time to snuggle up in a warm sweater. I’ve had the navy and blush colors in my stash for some time and knew I wanted to pair them. The mustard and cream were the perfect compliments and created that gentle sunset look.

PIN IT

The Sunset Sweater looks amazing in solids, larger color blocks, smaller stripes. It’s yours to customize. This sweater can even be a fun stash buster.

You can also purchase the ad-free pdf-includes color coding + schematic {scroll down for the free pattern!}

{*affiliates-This post contains affiliate links which means a I receive a small fee if you click through and make a purchase through my links (at no additional cost to you) these allow me to keep new free patterns coming to you! Thank you for your support!}

Materials

#4 med worsted weight yarn, pictured is Joann’s Big Twist Value (380 yds/skein) in navy, light rose, mustard, cream

Rec yarn ydg by size: (XS) 1240 (S) 1484 (M) 1575 (L) 1670 (XL) 1750 (2X) 1900 (3X) 2100 (4X) 2280 (5X) 2311

6mm hook, Stitch Markers, Yarn needle, Measuring tape, Scissors

Notes

Please read through pattern and complete a gauge swatch before you begin.

Ch 3 counts as a stitch, I highly recommend using a ch 3 alternative, here’s my favorite.

Ch 1 at the start of the row does not count as a stitch.

Stitch multiple is 2 +1.

The panels are reversible until a color change is made, this sets which side is the RS and WS. In the pattern the color changes are made on odd rows. Keep this in mind if altering the color blocks. Blocks in pattern are worked in four 6” panels for a length of 24.”  Always change colors on the same side of your fabric and you’ll be fine.

Pattern is worked bottom up in 4 parts: back panel, front panel and two sleeve panels and then seamed together. Cowl neck is joined and worked in the round.

Pattern is written for multiple sizes, with the smallest size written first and each subsequent size written in parentheses XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). For example: Row 1. Fdc 49 (55, 61, 69, 75, 81, 87, 95, 101). To make an XS you would foundation double crochet 49, for a M you would foundation double crochet 55 and a 4X you would foundation double crochet 95.

Level

I have marked this pattern as Intermediate because of the special stitches used. However, I’ve also linked to photo + video tutorials for those stitches, so even if the Trinity Stitch (or post stitch) is new then you can easily learn them and make this sweater too!

Tutorials linked under Stitches.

More Crochet Sweater Patterns

Positano Pocket Cardigan

Nebbia Sweater

Mid Summer Cardigan

Spring Cardi

Stitches/Abbreviations

Sk-skip the indicated stitch

rep-repeat

rs-right side

ws-wrong side

ch(s)–chain(s)

dc–double crochet

rnd-round

sl st–slip stitch

st(s)-stitch(es)

Special Stitches (Click links for tutorials)

Fdc–foundation double crochet Fpdc–front post double crochet

Bpdc–back post double crochet

Sc3tog-insert hook into first st, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops on your hook.

Ts-Trinity Stitch Photo & Video Tutorial This is the stitch used, for simplicity the instructions are written out in the pattern. Click on the link above to view a step by step photo tutorial and video. 

Gauge

4” x 4” = 13 sts x 10.5 rows of trinity stitch

Swatch

(is intentionally larger than 4”): 

Ch 18,

 Row 1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, starting in same st: sc3tog, *{ch 1, starting in same st: sc3tog} rep from * to end of row, after last sc3tog do not ch 1, insert hook back into last st, place a sc with end of last st, turn. (17 sts)

Row 2. Ch 1 (does not count), in same st sc, starting in same st as sc: sc3tog, *{ch 1, starting in same st: sc3tog} rep from * to end of row, after last sc3tog do not ch 1, insert hook back into last st, place a sc with end of last Ts, turn. (17 sts) 

Rep Row 2 for 11 rows total or until swatch is at least 4” tall.

Measure 4” within the swatch. If you get more than 13 sts in 4″ then you need to rewatch with a smaller hook and if you get less than 13 sts in 4″ then you need to rewatch with a larger hook.

If you have trouble meeting gauge, you can size up in the pattern to get the needed width or add more rows to get the needed length.

Fit/Adjustments

Pattern is a snug fit, equal to body measurements. There is no ease is added, so you’ll want to take measurements periodically to check that you’re still on target. For a looser fit, go up a size in the pattern.

All sizes are written for the same length. If you increase the length of your sweater, be sure to make the front and back panels the same length; you may also need to adjust color blocking. If you are color blocking then you will want to plan out any length adjustments before you begin. Measure from the top of your shoulder to where you would like your sweater to stop on your body. Use this measurement to divide your colors into. As written the pattern is 24” in length made of 4 color blocks of 6” each. The last 8.5” of the front panel is when you divide for the shoulders + neck.

Target Measurements

ChristaCoDesign patterns use Craft Yarn Council sizing standards.

Pattern 49 (55, 63, 69, 75, 83, 89, 95, 101)

Back Panel

For the bottom in navy, I worked the 3 ribbing rows + 12 rows of trinity stitch and then 16 rows or 6” each of mustard, rose and cream. To add more length, you could easily work more ribbing rows. Or after the ribbing, work the first color block for all 16 rows=6”. Pictured is ribbing + first color to = the 6”color blocking. 

Row 1. Fdc 49 (55, 63, 69, 75, 83, 87, 95, 101) or ch 51 (57, 65, 71, 77, 85, 89, 97, 103) and dc in the 4th ch and in each ch across, turn. 

Row 2. Ch 3, *{fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st} rep from * to last 2 sts, fpdc in next st and dc in last, turn. (49, 55, 63, 69, 75, 83, 87, 95, 101 sts)

Row 3. Ch 3, *{bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st} rep from * to last 2 sts, bpdc in next st, dc in last st, turn. An easy way to add length is by adding a few more rows to your ribbing. Be sure to start your Trinity st rows on an even row.

Row 4. (RS) Ch 1 (does not count), in same st sc, starting in same st as sc: sc3tog, *{ch 1, starting in same st: sc3tog} rep from * to end of row, after last sc3tog do not ch 1, insert hook back into last st, place a sc with end of last st, turn.  (49, 55, 63, 69, 75, 83, 87, 95, 101 sts)

Rows 5-63. (WS) Rep Row 4 until panel is 24” total or until desired length is reached. After working several rows it is a good idea to check your panel width, your target measurements: 15” (16.8, 19.3, 21.2, 23, 25.5, 27.3, 29.2, 31) inches

Cut yarn, leave a long tail for seaming shoulders.

Front Panel

Row 1. Fdc 49 (55, 63, 69, 75, 83, 87, 95, 101) or ch 51 (57, 65, 71, 77, 85, 89, 97, 103) and work dc in the 4th ch and in each ch across, turn. 

Row 2. Ch 3, *{fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st} rep from * to last 2 sts, fpdc in next st and dc in last, turn. (49, 55, 63, 69, 75, 83, 87, 95, 101 sts)

Row 3. Ch 3, *{bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st} rep from * to last 2 sts, bpdc in next st, dc in last st. If you lengthened here be sure your panels are equal.

Row 4. (RS) Ch 1 (does not count), in same st sc, starting in same st as sc: sc3tog, *{ch 1, starting in same st: sc3tog} rep from * to end of row, after last sc3tog do not ch 1, insert hook back into last st, place a sc with end of last st, turn. (49, 55, 63, 69, 75, 83, 87, 95, 101 sts)

Rows 5-41. Rep Row 4 until panel is 15.5” total, leaving last 22 rows or 8.5” for shoulders. Do not cut yarn, continue to Shoulders.

Shoulders

Set up St Markers: Count 17 (21, 25, 27, 31, 35, 37, 41, 43) sts in, place st marker. Your first shoulder will end here. Skip the next 15 (13, 13, 15, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15) sts, place a st marker in the next st. Your second shoulder will start here. 

Row 1. (RS) Ch 1 (does not count), sc in same st, starting in same st as sc: sc3tog, *{ch 1, starting in same st: sc3tog} rep from * to indicated st, after last sc3tog do not ch 1, insert hook back into last st, place a sc with end of last st, turn. (17, 21, 25, 27, 31, 35, 37, 41, 43 sts)

 Rows 2-22. Rep Row 1 for 8.5” total, if you adjusted the length of your panels, be sure they are the same length now. *Note that my color changed on Row 7 of the Shoulders. Cut yarn, leave a long tail for seaming.

 Rep Rows 1-22 for second shoulder, leaving the center 15 (13, 13, 15, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15) sts unworked for the neck. Begin at the second st marker. 

Cut yarn, leave a long tail for seaming.

 Sleeves

We will gently increase sleeve width over the length of the sleeve. In the pattern sleeve length is 20.” To adjust sleeve length, jump ahead to seaming your panels and try it on. Measure from shoulder edge of sweater to your hand, (or to where you want the sleeve to end-between the wrist and first thumb joint is typical). Use this length for your sleeve, adjust color blocking as necessary. For the color changes I did the 3 ribbing rows + 10 trinity rows of navy and 14 rows or 5” of each of the others. Work 14 rows per color or 5” blocks of color, changing on RS rows. Adjust the width of your sleeve at any time by adding more increase rows, or leaving some out. Just wrap the sleeve around your arm as you go to check fit. The final width of your sleeve should equal twice the arm hole measurement. 

XS/S/M

Row 1. Fdc 25, or ch 27 and dc in the 4th ch from your hook and in each ch across, turn. Sleeve width begins at 7.5” 

L/XL/2/3/4/5X

Row 1. Fdc 29, or ch 31 and dc in the 4th ch from your hook and in each ch across, turn. Sleeve width begins at 9”

Row 2. Ch 3, *{fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st} rep from * to last 2 sts, fpdc in next st and dc in last, turn. (XS/S/M 25 sts) (L/XL/2/3/4/5X 29 sts)

Row 3. Ch 3, *{bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st} rep from * to last 2 sts, bpdc in next st, dc in last st, turn.

Row 4. (RS) Ch 1 (does not count), in same st sc, starting in same st as sc: sc3tog, *{ch 1, starting in same st: sc3tog} rep from * to end of row, after last sc3tog do not ch 1, insert hook back into last st, place a sc with end of last st, turn. (XS/S/M 25 sts) (L/XL/2/3/4/5X 29 sts) 

You can watch me work Row 5 of the sleeves here: Sunset Sweater Sleeves Video Tutorial

Row 5. Ch 1 (does not count), in same st sc, ch 1, starting in same st as sc: sc3tog, *{ch 1, starting in same st: sc3tog} rep from * to end of row, ch 1, insert hook back into last st, place a sc with end of last st, turn. (XS/S/M 27 sts) (L/XL/2/3/4/5X 31 sts) *Now that we have added chs to begin increasing the sleeve the stitch pattern will shift slightly on the next regular row, as you will now include those ch1s in your first and last sc3togs.

Row 6. (RS) Ch 1 (does not count), in same st sc, starting in same st as sc: sc3tog, *{ch 1, starting in same st: sc3tog} rep from * to end of row, after last sc3tog do not ch 1, insert hook back into last st, place a sc with end of last st, turn. (XS/S/M 27 sts) (L/XL/2/3/4/5X 31 sts) 

XS

Rows 7-22. Rep Rows 5-6, for 22 rows total, until you have 43 sts and sleeve is 13” wide.

Rows 23-52. Rep Row 6 for 52 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (43 sts) 

S

  Rows 7-24. Rep Rows 5-6, for 24 rows total, until you have 45 sts and sleeve is 14” wide.

Rows 25-52. Rep Row 6 for 54 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (45 sts)

M

Rows 7-28. Rep Rows 5-6, for 28 rows total, until you have 49 sts and sleeve is 15” wide.

Rows 29-52. Rep Row 6 for 52 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (49 sts)

L

Rows 7-28. Rep Rows 5-6, for 28 rows total, until you have 53 sts and sleeve is 16” wide.

Rows 29-52. Rep Row 6 for 52 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (53 sts) 

XL

Rows 7-30. Rep Rows 5-6, for 30 rows total, until you have 55 sts and sleeve is 17” wide.

Rows 30-52. Rep Row 6 for 52 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (55 sts)

2X

Rows 7-34. Rep Rows 5-6, for 34 rows total, until you have 59 sts and sleeve is 18” wide.

Rows 35-52. Rep Row 6 for 52 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (59 sts)

3X

Rows 7-36. Rep Rows 5-6, for 36 rows total, until you have 61 sts and sleeve is 19” wide.

Rows 37-52. Rep Row 6 for 52 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (61 sts)

4X

Rows 7-40. Rep Rows 5-6, for 40 rows total, until you have 65 sts and sleeve is 20” wide.

Rows 41-52. Rep Row 6 for 52 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (65 sts) 

5X

Rows 7-44. Rep Rows 5-6, for 44 rows total, until you have 69 sts and sleeve is 21” wide.

Rows 45-52. Rep Row 6 for 52 rows total or until sleeve measures 20”or desired length. (69 sts) 

Seaming 

Seam=Sew with matching yarn, yarn needle and a Mattress Stitch.

Panels

Lay front panel and back panel together with RS touching, seam together at shoulders. Seam sides of panels together, from the bottom up, leaving 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5)” unseamed for armholes, on both sides.

Sleeves

Fold sleeve in half lengthwise, with RS touching, seam long edge together.

Turn sleeve RS out. With body panels still WS out, slide sleeve (rs  out) in sweater, lining up shoulder end of sleeve to armhole opening. Seam sleeve to armhole with mattress stitch. Rep for other sleeve. 

 Cowl Neck

1. Work in the round.
2. St multiple is 2. 
3. Ch 2 does not count as a st. Ch 3 counts as a dc.
4. As written, cowl neck is 12” long, enough to fold down.
5. For a looser fit cowl, add more stitches to the neck. 
6. For the last two rows of the cowl I went up to a 7mm hook to allow the edge of the cowl to spread more easily and lay in place. Alternately you could loosen your tension on the 6mm.
7. Tucking your sleeves inside the sweater will keep them from flopping around during the cowl.

With RS of sweater facing you, join cream yarn with sl st along back of neck opening.

Rnd 1. Ch 3 (or alt), (XS/S/M) dc 69  (L/XL/2/3/4/5X) dc 79 more sts evenly around neck, join with a sl st. (XS/S/M 70 sts) (L/XL/2/3/4/5X 80 sts) -the exact stitch count is not important, but it does need to be an even number)

Rnd 2. Ch 2 (doesn’t count), fpdc around ch 3, bpdc in next st, *{fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st} rep from * around, join with sl st to first fpdc made (not ch 2).

Rnd 3. Ch 2, *{fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st} rep from * around, join with sl st to first fpdc.

Rnds 4-30. Rep last row until cowl neck is 30 rows or 12” long, or to desired length. 

Weave in all ends. Eccola, your Sunset Sweater is complete! Wear it and share it!

I’d love to see your #sunsetsweater tag me @christacodesign on Instagram if you post a pic. Or share it to my Facebook Group, I love to see your work!