Mid Summer Cardigan a Free Crochet Pattern

Mid Summer Cardigan a Free Crochet Pattern

Join the Crochet Along {CAL} for this pattern here!

The Mid Summer Cardigan is lightweight, long and loose. Perfect for a day at the beach as a cover up, or for getting comfy on the couch. This easy to wear cardigan flows effortlessly with side and back slits. The 3/4 sleeves provide coverage without overwhelming.

When I chose the Summer’s End Cardigan for July’s CAL, I knew I wanted a longer option as well. And love how the Mid Summer Cardigan turned out, it’s been a fav outside and inside the house. This one is so versatile. I can throw it on for the pool, or over leggings in the morning and feel dressed!

You might prefer the shorter, hip length version here Summer’s End Cardigan.

You can also purchase the ad free pdf:

Materials

Estimated yardage by size: XS-1000, S-1170, M-1370, L-1560, XL-1760, 2X-1950, 3X-2150, 4X-2350, 5X-2540 yds

Notes

  • This cardigan is worked in two panels of back and forth rows, then they are sewn together forming the back. I opted for a decorative seam to join the back. The sides are then sewn together, leaving the bottom slits open and the armhole open. The sleeves are added in rounds.
  • Ch 3 counts as a stitch, I highly recommend using a ch 3 alternative, like one of these.
  • The stitch multiple is 3 plus 4 if chaining for the foundation row, or 3 plus 2 if using fdc.
  • Pattern is written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Stitches/Abbreviations

*All ChristaCoDesign patterns are written in standard US terms

fdc-foundation double crochet

RS-right side WS-wrong side

ch-chain

dc-double crochet 

sc-single crochet

sl st-slip stitch

dc3tog-Cluster Stitch: tutorial here

rnd-round

Level

Gauge

2.5”x 2.5” = 8 dc x 4 rows (3 dc rows + 1 dc3tog row)

Swatch

Row 1. Fdc 14 or ch 16, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. 

Row 2. Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. 

Row 3. Rep last row again. 

Row 4. Ch 4 (counts as a dc + ch 1), in next 3 sts dc3tog, *{ch 2, in next 3 sts dc3tog} rep from * across, ch 1, dc in last st (3rd ch).

Measure gauge and adjust hook size if needed.

Fit

The pattern is written to include 10-18” of positive ease, meaning the garment measurements are larger than the actual body measurements. The fit of this cardigan is long and loose. The bottom hem reaches just above the knee. Finished length: 31″ (XS), 32.25″ (S), 33.5″ (M), 34.75″ (L), 36″ (XL), 39.5″ (2X), 41″ (3X), 43.5″ (4X), 44.5″ (5X). Sleeves are 3/4 length, and can be left off or made longer by following the easy repeat.

Adjustments 

To customize the length of this cardigan measure from your shoulder down to where you’d like the hem to hit on you. Multiply this number by 2. This is the desired length of your panels. If you are adding rows to get extra length be sure to end after 3 dc rows. To adjust width, increase the stitch count in multiples of 3.

Bust Size”Pattern SizePanel Width”Panel Length”
30XS1062
34S1164.5
38M1267
42L1369.5
46XL1472
502X16.579
543X1882
584X1987
625X2089

*Sizing is based on Craft Yarn Council Standards

Video Tutorial for Panels

Pattern

Make 2

Row 1. (WS) Fdc 32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 53, 59, 62, 65) or Ch 34 (37, 40, 43, 46, 55, 61, 64, 67) and dc in 4th ch from hook (2 dcs formed) and in each ch across, turn. (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 53, 59, 62, 65 sts)

Row 2. Ch 3, dc in next dc and in each dc across, turn. 

Row 3. Rep last row.

**

Row 4. (RS) Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), in next 3 sts dc3tog, *{ch 2, dc3tog} rep from * across until last st, ch 1, dc into last st (3rd ch), turn. (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 53, 59, 62, 65 sts)

Row 5. Ch 3, dc in each ch sp (placing 2 dc in each ch 2 sp) and st across, the last 2 dcs will go in the 4th and 3rd ch, turn.

Row 6. Ch 3, dc in next dc and in each dc across, turn.

Row 7. Rep last row.

**

Rep Rows 4-7: 23 (24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 33, 34) more times, for a total of 99 (103, 107, 111, 115, 127, 131, 139, 143) rows, or 62 (64.5, 67, 69.5, 72, 79, 82, 87, 89).“

Cut yarn & weave in ends.

Assembly

Video Tutorial for Seaming

Seam the back

  • Since the panels are seamed to form the back and then folded over the shoulder to form the front panels this will result in one side (your front or back) being “upside down.” If you have a preference on which you see in the front then orient them that way. Just be sure both panels are facing the same way (ie. both row 1 on the bottom) before seaming them together. 
  • Also note that when you join the sleeves later they will hang “upside down,” which will match either your back or front depending on how you decide to fold your panels.
  • I chose a visible decorative seam for the back so I worked on the RS, (if you do not want your seam to stand out, work on the WS when seaming).

1. Lay the two panels side by side, with the WS facing down.

2. Leave bottom 12 rows or 7.5” unseamed for the back slit, begin seaming here.

3. Join yarn with a sl st at the top of the 12th row. Sl st through both panel edges, matching row for row. Seam up the back for 39 (40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47) rows or 24 (25, 25.5, 26.25, 27, 27.5, 28, 28.75, 29) inches. *If you prefer an unseen, flat seam then sew on the ws using a mattress/whip stitch.

Seam the sides

  • With seamed back panel RS up, fold front panels over back panel, lining up bottom hems-notice the back is not sewn all the way up to the top of the shoulder.
  • Work on the ws of the fabric.
  • Use a mattress/whip stitch to sew.

1. Leave bottom 12 rows or 7.5” unseamed for the side slits, begin seaming here. 

2. Sew front panel sides up until 6.5” (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches are left to the fold of the shoulder, this creates the armhole opening.

Sleeves

  • Sleeves are worked in the round, but turned at the end of the rnd.
  • Stitch multiple is 3.

Join yarn with a sl st to the underside of armhole.

  1. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc 47 (50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65, 68, 71) evenly around the armhole, join with sl st to the 3rd ch, turn. (48, 51, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69, 72 sts) 
  2. Ch 3 (counts), dc in each st around, join with sl st to the 3rd ch, turn.
  3. Rep last rnd.
  4. Ch 2 (does not count), beginning in the same st, dc3tog, ch 2, *{in the next 3 sts dc3tog, ch 2} rep from * around, join with sl st to first dc3tog made, turn. 
  5. Ch 3 (counts), dc in each ch sp (placing 2 dc in each ch 2 sp) and st around, join with sl st to 3rd ch, turn.
  6. Ch 3 (counts), dc in each st around, join with sl st to 3rd ch, turn.
  7. Rep last rnd.

8-11. Rep Rnds 4-7. 

12.  Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. Cut yarn & weave in ends. 

Repeat for second sleeve.

Edging

Video Tutorial For Hem

  • Worked in the round.

With cardigan laid out upside down in front of you (neck toward you and bottom hem away from you) join yarn with a sl st to the corner of front panel on your left.

  1. Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, continuing up and down the slits, at the corners place (sc, ch1, sc) all in same st and continue to sc evenly around, and up the inside lapel, back down and around, joining to the first sc with a sl st.

Cut yarn & weave in ends.

I hope you enjoyed making the #midsummercardi tag me @christacodesign on Instagram if you post a pic. Or share it to my Facebook Group, I love to see your work. 

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