Learn how to crochet the Sera Cardigan. This free crochet cardigan pattern includes 9 women’s sizes. This cardigan is easy to crochet and even easier to wear.
The Sera Cardigan is a lightweight and easy to layer cardigan sweater. Featuring a classic fit this crochet cardigan is comfortable for around the house or a day out. It’s perfect for an evening walk, or passeggiata serale.
Made with double crochets, the stitch pattern is simple and easy to remember. I wanted minimal seaming on this design, but all the customizing ability.
You can purchase the ad-free, well formatted PDF Pattern in one of my shops. Scroll down for the free pattern!
You can easily adjust length of the sweater or the sleeves. And there are only seams on the shoulders and armholes!
The subtle v-neck shaping give this easy cardigan a great fit. This is one crochet cardigan women will want to wear.
I love how simple it is to decrease in some crochet stitches. Here it’s just a matter of making one less double crochet.
I find this length the most versatile for my wardrobe. But, of course adjusting the length of your cardigan is easy, with a little planning. Look for more details in the free crochet pattern below.
More Crochet Cardigans
Find these free crochet patterns on my blog!
If you’re looking for an uber cozy crochet cardigan that looks great with leggings, you might enjoy the Hygge Homebody Cozy Crochet Cardigan Pattern.
Or maybe it’s a little warm for long sleeves where you are? Then the Spring Cardi Top Down Crochet Cardigan Pattern has you covered, with 3 sleeve options.
This stitch pattern works up so nicely, you may also like the crochet sweater version, the Sera Sweater. This crochet top features a v-neck.
More Free Crochet Cardigan Patterns
- Summer’s End Cardigan short and long versions available
- Spring Cardi top down crochet cardigan
- Sorella Cardigan open lacy summer cardigan
The Yarn
I’ve had this Vanna’s Style yarn in my stash for a while, I knew I wanted to create a spring cardigan with it. The texture and sheen pairs so well with the stitch.
Unfortunately it’s discontinued, although you can still find it in some places. It’s a #3 lightweight/dk yarn, but I found it to be a thicker #3 yarn.
Lion Brand has several #3 DK/lightweight yarns* that would make a good substitute. When I need to sub out yarn I almost always check YarnSub.com for comparable.
If you only have #4 medium worsted weight yarn, I think that could easily work for this pattern. However, you’ll need to meet gauge with your chosen yarn/hook. Otherwise, your cardigan might not fit!
Materials
- Vanna’s Style Yarn* a #3 light weight yarn (100% acrylic, 3.5 oz/100g, 254 yd/232m) color: camel; (XS & S) 4, (M & L) 5, (XL & 2X) 6, (3X & 4X) 7, (5X) 8.
- Yards/Meters by size:
(XS) 1000yds/914m
(S) 1100yds/1006m
(M) 1225yds/1120m
(L) 1300yds/1189m
(XL) 1450yds/1326m
(2X) 1600yds/1463m
(3X) 1700yds/1555m
(4X) 1800yds/1646m
(5X) 1950yds/1783m
- 5mm US size (H) hook, pictured below is my Furls Odyssey in Peach*
- stitch markers
- yarn needle
- measuring tape
- scissors
- Please read through all notes and pattern before you begin.
- Work up a gauge swatch using the provided gauge information. Measure your swatch and if your gauge matches, great continue on; if not, change your hook size and swatch again. Are your stitches are smaller? Then go up a hook size, and if they’re larger, go down a hook size.
- Ch 3 counts as a stitch, I highly recommend using a ch 3 alternative, like one of these.
- St multiple is 2 + 6.
- Check stitch count before starting a new section.
- Pattern is written for multiple sizes, with the smallest size written first and each subsequent size written in parentheses XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). For example: Row 1. FDC 104 (120, 136, 144, 160, 176, 184, 200, 208). To make an XS you would foundation double crochet 104, for a M you would foundation double crochet 136 and a 4X you would foundation double crochet 200.
Stitches/Abbreviations
ch(s) – chain(s)
dc – double crochet
FDC – foundation double crochet
rep – repeat
rnd(s) – round(s)
sc – single crochet
sk – skip the indicated stitch
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
Gauge
4”/10cm x 4”/10cm = 13 dc x 8 rows of dc
Gauge is after blocking. You can read more on how to check gauge here.
Skill Level
Easy
Construction
The main body this easy crochet cardigan is crocheted as one piece, bottom up. We will then separate the cardigan into three pieces, creating armholes for the sleeves, while also creating the front and back panels.
These are seamed together at the shoulder. The sleeves are worked separately, from the wrist up and in the round, but turned to keep the stitch pattern the same. The sleeves are seamed on at the armholes.
Fit/Adjustment
Pattern adds 2″/5cm-4”/10cm of ease to bust measurement, for a classic fit. For a looser fit, go up a size, for a snugger fit, go down a size.
To adjust length of cardigan add or subtract rows before dividing. Measure from your underarm to where you want the cardigan to stop. This is your desired length before dividing.
To Fit Bust Size
(XS) 30″ / 76.25 cm
(S) 34″ / 86.5 cm
(M) 38″ / 96.5 cm
(L)42″ / 106.75 cm
(XL) 46″ / 116.75 cm
(2X) 50″ / 127 cm
(3X) 54″ / 137.25 cm
(4X) 58″ / 147.25 cm
(5X) 62″ / 157.5 cm
Finished Bust
(XS) 32” / 81.25 cm
(S) 37” / 94 cm
(M) 41.8” / 106.25 cm
(L) 44.2” / 112.75 cm
(XL) 49.2” / 125.25 cm
(2X) 54.2” / 137.75 cm
(3X) 56.7” / 144 cm
(4X) 61.6” / 156.5 cm
(5X) 64” / 162.5 cm
Finished Length (in / cm)
(XS) 21.5″ / 54.5 cm
(S) 22.5″ / 57.25 cm
(M) 23″ / 58.5 cm
(L/XL) 23.5″ / 59.75 cm
(2/3X) 24.5″ / 62.25 cm
(4/5X) 25.5″ / 64.75 cm
ChristaCoDesign patterns use Craft Yarn Council sizing standards.
You can purchase the ad-free, well formatted PDF Pattern in one of my shops. Scroll down for the free pattern!
Scroll down for the Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern!
Sera Crochet Cardigan Pattern
Learn how to crochet the Sera Cardigan. This free crochet cardigan pattern includes 9 women’s sizes. This cardigan is easy to crochet and even easier to wear.
Materials
- Vanna's Style Yarn a #3 light weight yarn (100% acrylic, 3.5 oz/100g, 254 yd/232m) color: camel; (XS & S) 4, (M & L) 5, (XL & 2X) 6, (3X & 4X) 7, (5X) 8.
- (XS) 1000yds/914m
- (S) 1100yds/1006m
- (M) 1225yds/1120m
- (L) 1300yds/1189m
- (XL) 1450yds/1326m
- (2X) 1600yds/1463m
- (3X) 1700yds/1555m
- (4X) 1800yds/1646m
- (5X) 1950yds/1783m
Tools
- 5mm hook, pictured is my Furls Odyssey in Peach
- stitch markers
- yarn needle
- measuring tape
- scissors
Instructions
- XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Row 1. FDC 104 (120, 136, 144, 160, 176, 184, 200, 208) or if you’re unfamiliar with FDC you can CH 106 (122, 138, 146, 162, 178, 186, 202, 210), dc in the 4th ch and in each ch across, turn. - Row 2. Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st across, turn.
- Row 3. Rep Row 2. Now is a good time to check your “finished bust”: 32 (36.9, 41.9, 44.2, 49.2, 54.2, 56.7, 61.6, 64)”
- Row 4. Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til 3 sts left, dc in last 3 sts, turn. (104,120, 136, 144, 160, 176, 184, 200, 208) sts
- Rows 5-31. Rep Row 4. If you would like a longer cardigan add more rows here, end on an odd row. *We will add 6 (7, 7.5, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10)” to the length once panels are divided.
Divide
*Check stitch count before dividing.
Now we’ll divide the front right (when wearing), back, and left front (when wearing) panels. Count off (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50, 52 sts) and place 1st st marker in next st.
First (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50, 52 sts) are the Front Right Panel.
1st st marker begins the back panel.
Begin with the marked st and count (52, 60, 68, 72, 80, 88, 92, 100, 104 sts) place 2nd st marker in the last st counted. This marks the end of the Back Panel.
The remaining (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50, 52 sts) are the Front Left Panel (when wearing). *Note the marked sts are a part of the Back Panel st count.
Finished panels will look like the picture:
Front Right Panel {when wearing}
-If you are a left-handed crocheter the Right Panel is your Left Panel and vice versa.
-Row count starts over.
- Row 1. (RS) Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til one st before marker, dc in next st, turn. (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50, 52 sts)
- Row 2. Ch 3, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til 3 sts left, dc in last 3 sts, turn. (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50, 52 sts)
- Row 3. Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til one st left, dc in last st, turn.
- Row 4. Ch 3, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til 7 sts left, **{sk next st, 1 DC in next st} rep from ** 1 more time, dc in last 3 sts, turn. (24, 28, 32, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48, 50 sts)
- Row 5. Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til one st left, dc in last st, turn. (24, 28, 32, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48, 50 sts)
- Rows 6-11. Rep Rows 4-5. (18, 22, 26, 28, 32, 36, 38, 42, 44 sts) shoulder width = (5.5, 6.8, 8, 8.6, 9.9, 11, 11.7, 12.9, 13.5)”
XS
Row 12. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 6” from divide row.
S
Row 12-13. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 14. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 7” from divide row.
M
Row 12-15. Rep Rows 2-3. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 7.5” from divide row.
L
Rows 12-15. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 16. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 8” from divide row.
XL
Rows 12-15. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 16. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 8” from divide row.
2X
Rows 12-17. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 18. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 9” from divide row.
3X
Rows 12-17. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 18. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 9” from divide row.
4X
Rows 12-19. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 20. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 10” from divide row.
5X
Rows 12-19. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 20. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 10” from divide row.
Back Panel
- With RS up, join yarn with sl st to 1st marked back panel st = st # (27, 31, 35, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51, 53)
Row 1. Ch 3, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til 1 st before marker, dc in next st, turn. (52, 60, 68, 72, 80, 88, 92, 100, 104 sts) - Row 2. Ch 3, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til one st left, dc in last st, turn. (52, 60, 68, 72, 80, 88, 92, 100, 104 sts)
- Row 3. – Row 12, 14, 15, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20. Rep Row 2, cut yarn.
Front Left Panel {when wearing}
- -If you are a left handed crocheter the Left Panel is your Right Panel and vice versa.
With RS up, join yarn with sl st to first st left of back panel, st # (79, 91, 103, 109, 121, 133, 139, 151, 157)
Row 1. Ch 3, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st,} rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts, turn. (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50, 52 sts) - Row 2. Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * to one st left, dc in last st, turn. (26, 30, 34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50, 52 sts)
- Row 3. Ch 3, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts, turn.
- Row 4. Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *{sk next st, 1 DC in next st} rep from * one more time, **{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from ** to one st left, dc in last st, turn. (24, 28, 32, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48, 50 sts)
- Row 5. Ch 3, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts, turn. (24, 28, 32, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48, 50 sts)
- Rows 6-11. Rep Rows 4-5, ending with (18, 22, 26, 28, 32, 36, 38, 42, 44 sts) and a shoulder width = (5.5, 6.8, 8, 8.6, 9.9, 11, 11.7, 12.9, 13.5)”
XS
Row 12. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 6” from divide row.
S
Row 12-13. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 14. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 7” from divide row.
M
Row 12-15. Rep Rows 2-3. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 7.5” from divide row.
L
Rows 12-15. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 16. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 8” from divide row.
XL
Rows 12-15. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 16. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 8” from divide row.
2X
Rows 12-17. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 18. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 9” from divide row.
3X
Rows 12-17. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 18. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 9” from divide row.
4X
Rows 12-19. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 20. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 10” from divide row.
5X
Rows 12-19. Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 20. Rep Row 2. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn. Measures 10” from divide row.
Seam
Turn cardigan WS out so RS are touching. Line up shoulders to back panel. Use the mattress stitch to sew shoulders to back panel. Cut yarn. Now is a good time to try it on and make any adjustments.
Sleeves
Make 2
-Join and turn each round.
-Sleeves are worked from the wrist up, so you can try them on at anytime and add or subtract increases as needed.
-We will increase on either side of the join, at this point the stitch pattern will look a little different, but this will be our faux seam so it will be on the underside.
-Sleeves XS-3X are written for 18.5” and 4X-5X for 19” in length.
-To adjust your sleeve length: try on your sleeveless cardigan, measure from the shoulder edge down to your hand-or where you want your sleeves to end. This is your desired sleeve length. You can add or subtract rounds according to your need.
- Rnd 1. FDC 32, or ch 34 and dc in the 4th ch from your hook and in each ch across, join with sl st to first st and turn. (32 sts)
- Rnds 2-3. Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to first st to join, turn.
Rnd 4. Ch 3, dc in same st, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * to one st left, sk last st, sl st to first st to join, turn. (32 sts)
Rnds 5-7. Ch 3, dc in same st, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * to one st left, sk last st, sl st to first st to join, turn.
Rnd 8. Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 DC in next 2 STS, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * to one st left, 2 dc in last st, sl st to first st to join, turn. (36 sts)
XS
Rnds 9-12. Rep Rnds 5-8 til you have 40 sts and sleeve is 6” wide flat.
Rnds. 13-35. Rep Rnd 4 or til you have reached your desired sleeve length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
S
Rnds 9-16. Rep Rnds 5-8 til you have 44 sts and sleeve is 6.8” wide flat.
Rnds. 17-35. Rep Rnd 4 or til you have reached your desired sleeve length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
M
Rnds 9-20. Rep Rnds 5-8 til you have 48 sts and sleeve is 7.4” wide flat.
Rnds. 21-35. Rep Rnd 4 or til you have reached your desired sleeve length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
L
Rnds 9-24. Rep Rnds 5-8 til you have 52 sts and sleeve is 8” wide flat.
Rnds. 25-35. Rep Rnd 4 or til you have reached your desired sleeve length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
XL
Rnds 9-24. Rep Rnds 5-8 til you have 52 sts and sleeve is 8” wide flat.
Rnds. 25-35. Rep Rnd 4 or til you have reached your desired sleeve length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
2X
Rnds 9-28. Rep Rnds 5-8 til you have 56 sts and sleeve is 8.6” wide flat.
Rnds. 29-35. Rep Rnd 4 or til you have reached your desired sleeve length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
3X
Rnds 9-32. Rep Rnds 5-8 til you have 60 sts and sleeve is 9” wide flat.
If you need more sleeve length Rep Rnd 4 til you have reached your desired length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
4X
Rnds 9-36. Rep Rnds 5- 8 til you have 64 sts and sleeve is 9.8” wide flat.
For more sleeve length Rep Rnd 4 til you have reached your desired length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
5X
Rnds 9-36. Rep Rnds 5- 8 til you have 64 sts and sleeve is 9.8” wide flat.
For more sleeve length Rep Rnd 4 til you have reached your desired length. Leaving a long tail for seaming, cut yarn.
Seam
With cardigan body WS out and sleeve RS out, slide armhole end of sleeve into the cardigan.
Make sure the faux seam is on the bottom (where your elbow will be). Line up the armhole end of sleeve with the armhole opening. 
Sew sleeve to armhole with mattress stitch. If needed, seam side of armhole to close. - Rep for both sleeves. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.
Turn cardigan RS out. Join yarn with sl st to bottom corner of the Front Right Panel (when wearing)(Left for left handed crocheters) - Ch 1, sc evenly up front panel, continue along back panel and down left front panel. Cut yarn. Weave in ends.
- Join yarn with sl st to sleeve cuff on the backside. Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st to join. Cut yarn. Weave in ends. Rep on second sleeve.
Finishing
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LaLiz
Saturday 7th of May 2022
I think I figured out how I will make notes starting with R 4
Turn, ch 2(3), *1 DC in first three stitches, sk 1 st, 2 DC in next st, 1 DC in each last 3 st, turn, ch 2, Repeat from *
That is how I got to 136, even on both sides with the 3 DC in the beg and end of each row.
LaLiz
Friday 6th of May 2022
I don't know why - but in the first part none of my end stitches come out, i. e., if I start with the 2DC in the next two stitches, I end up with only 135 across instead of 136 - so I just throw in another DC at the end (4dcs)
Am I supposed to skip the FIRST stitch in and then 2DC? I don't know, but as long as the count comes up . . . .
LaLiz
Saturday 7th of May 2022
@Christa,
Thank you! I had this BEAUTIFUL thread/yarn that I purchased at a thrift store years ago and am using your pattern to make the softest slouchy sweater ever! Now my sister wants me to make one for her.
Christa
Friday 6th of May 2022
Hi! Thanks for your question. I'll try to help.
Looking at Row 4, it begins with 3 double crochets in the first 3 stitches (ch 3 counts as the first dc, the 1 dc in the next and 1 dc in the next). After those first three stitches you begin the sk 1 and 2 dc pattern across. And then you end with 1 dc in each of the last 3 stitches. Here is "Row 4. Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til 3 sts left, dc in last 3 sts, turn. (104,120, 136, 144, 160, 176, 184, 200, 208) sts" I'm referring to.
I hope this helps! Crystal
Rose Gray
Saturday 23rd of April 2022
Hello, Is there anyway I could pay for this cardigan pattern so I don’t have to follow my phone . If it can be emailed without advertising I can then print it out.
Christa
Saturday 23rd of April 2022
Hi Rose, Yes you can purchase the PDF Pattern and download it from one of my shops. Here are the links: https://www.etsy.com/listing/779817560/sera-cardigan-crochet-pattern-pdf https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-us/p/catalog/product/view/id/301805/ https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sera-cardigan Thank you, Crystal
Linda
Wednesday 16th of February 2022
Could I possibly get some help with row 3 on the back panel?
Christa
Wednesday 16th of February 2022
Hi Linda, Are you on the back panel after the divide? How can I help? Row 3 is the same stitch pattern skip 1, 2 dc in the next. From the pattern it reads: Row 3. – Row 12, 14, 15, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20. Rep Row 2, cut yarn. So you will repeat this row Ch 3, *{sk next st, 2 dc in next st} rep from * til one st left, dc in last st, turn. for the number of rows by size. For instance if you're making the XS then it's Rows 3-12, or 10 rows total. If you're making the 5X repeat Row 2 for Rows 3-20, or 18 rows total. Please feel free to ask your specific question, if this doesn't help. You can also email me directly at christacodesign@gmail.com Thanks, Crystal
Linda
Monday 14th of February 2022
Hi 😊 I seen to be stuck! Im about to start the back panel on the Sera Cardigan and it don't understand your instructions for row 3. Could you possibly elaborate? Im confused with the directions on it. Thanks bunches Linda😊
Christa
Tuesday 15th of February 2022
Hi Linda, Thanks for reaching out with your question. Just to clarify, I'm going to copy and paste the instructions for Row 3 here and explain below: Row 3. Rep Row 2. Now is a good time to check your “actual bust”: 32 (36.9, 41.9, 44.2, 49.2, 54.2, 56.7, 61.6, 64)”
Rep Row 2 means to repeat row 2 again -- simply another row of double crochets. To check your "actual bust" means that at this point your yarn/tension/fabric should be working out to the actual width it's going to be. So now is a good time to check how wide your fabric is compared to how wide it should be (which is listed under "finished bust" for your size {I see that I have used two different terms here: actual and finished. They are the same, so I will edit that.
I hope this clarifies. Please let me know if you have any further questions and thanks for asking! Crystal