Sorella Cardigan a Free Crochet Pattern

Sorella Cardigan a Free Crochet Pattern

The Sorella Cardigan has a loose fit that’s comfortable and flattering. This cardigan is perfect for those dark colors that seem to be a staple in our wardrobes. Crocheted with the lovely iris stitch, it’s easy to see where to put your hook, so grab that black yarn and make one!

The longer length makes the Sorella Cardigan a great pairing with leggings on chilly mornings. The short sleeves and neckline create a cardigan that is great for transition seasons, or for those of us who live in warmer climates.

I named this one for my sister, or “Sorella” in Italian. She requested a black or dark grey cardigan. Every crocheter knows black is not the most fun yarn to work with, so I chose a stitch that would be easy peasy to see, but also beautiful. And isn’t this Yarn Bee Secret Soft in Shale just a gorgeous color? If you like yarns with sheen, you’ll love this one.

She also wanted a short sleeve cardigan. Living in southeast Texas there are only so many cold days, so she’ll get more use out of this than a long sleeve sweater for sure.

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You can purchase {keep scrolling for the free pattern 👇} the premium pdf with a schematic + more photos below.

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Materials

Notes

  1. Please read through the pattern, all notes and work a gauge swatch before you begin.
  2. Ch 3 counts as a stitch, I highly recommend using a ch 3 alternative, like one of these.
  3. The cardigan is worked bottom up, as three panels then seamed at the shoulders. Sleeves are added in the round. 
  4. Stitch multiple is 4 + 5.
  5. The stitch used is the iris st- 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc all placed in the previous iris st’s ch 1 sp.
  6. Stitch count is given at the end of instructions with all sizes are inside the parenthesis. An (individual stitch count) is given, as well as the [number of iris sts] (explained in #4), for ease of counting. Use either one. 
  7. Pattern is written for multiple sizes, with the smallest size written first and each subsequent size written in parentheses XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). For example: Row 1. Fdc 65 (73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 105, 113, 121) turn. To make an XS you would foundation double crochet 65, for a M you would foundation double crochet 77 and a 4X you would foundation double crochet 113.
  8. Ease is added to the pattern, so the finished cardigan is larger than your body measurements. See chart for specifics below. 

Stitches/Abbreviations

fdc-foundation double crochet

iris stitch-photo + video tutorial

RS-right side

WS-wrong side

sk-skip the indicated stitch

rep-repeat

ch(s)-chain(s)

dc-double crochet

sl st-slip stitch

st(s)-stitch(es)

Gauge

5 iris sts= 6”

4” x 4” = 12 dc x 7 rows

Level

Size-Bust InchesPattern adds 9-11” of easeFront Panel Width inchesBack Panel Width inchesLength inches
XS-3040102025
S-344511.52225
M-384912.52425
L-425313.52625
XL-465513.52825
2X-5060153025
3X-5464163225
4X-586917.53425
5X-627117.53625

Adjustments

Please note that making any adjustments will change the amount of yarn needed so plan accordingly.

The pattern is written for the same length in all sizes. If you decide to shorten or lengthen yours, be sure to make all panels the same length. The shoulder portion is worked over the last 6 rows of both front panels. So if you change your length to 52 rows (instead of the written 44), you would begin your shoulder panels at row 46, or last 6 rows of your length.

To add or subtract width to your panels, it is easiest to go up or down a size in the pattern. If you still need to adjust it, the stitch multiple is 4, plus 5 to start. It’s easiest to start with the size closest to yours and add/subtract in fours. If XS starts with 65, then adding 4 gives us 69, which is between sizes XS and S. To double check our st multiple: 69-5=64, 64/4=16 so we have a st multiple of 4, plus 5.

Pattern

Back

Row 1. Fdc 65 (73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 105, 113, 121) turn.

OR if you’re unfamiliar with the fdc, Ch 67 (75, 79, 87, 95, 103, 107, 115, 123) dc into the 4th ch and in each ch across, turn.

Row 2. (RS) Ch 3, *{fpdc in next st, dc in next st} rep from *across, turn. (65, 73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 105, 113, 121 sts)

Row 3. (WS) Ch 3, sk next st, *{(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in next st, sk next 3 sts} rep from * til last 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk next st, dc in last st, turn. (82, 92, 97, 107, 117, 127, 132, 142, 152 sts)= [2 dc + (16, 18, 19, 21, 23, 25, 26, 28, 30 iris sts)]

For Row 4 and on, you will work iris sts in top of iris sts.

Row 4. Ch 3, sk next 2 dc, *{(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in next ch 1 sp, sk next 4 dc} rep from * til last 4 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch 1 sp, sk next 2 dc, dc in last st, turn. 

Rows 5-44. Rep Row 4. Cut yarn, leave a long tail for seaming.

First Front Panel {Left front when wearing}

Row 1. Fdc 33 (37, 41, 45, 45, 49, 53, 57, 57) turn.

OR if you’re unfamiliar with the fdc, Ch 35 (39, 43, 47, 47, 51, 55, 59, 59) dc into the 4th ch and in each ch across, turn.

Row 2. (RS) Ch 3, *{fpdc in next st, dc in next st} rep from *across, turn. (33, 37, 41, 45, 45, 49, 53, 57, 57 sts)

Row 3. (WS) Ch 3, sk next st, *{(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in next st, sk next 3 sts} rep from * til last 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk next st, dc in last st, turn. (42, 47, 52, 57, 57, 62, 67, 72, 72 sts) = [2 dc + 8, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14, 14 iris sts]

Row 4. Ch 3, sk next 2 dc, *{(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in next ch 1 sp, sk next 4 dc} rep from * til last 4 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch 1 sp, sk next 2 dc, dc in last st, turn. 

Rows 5-37. Rep Row 4. Tip: On Row 37 place st marker in last dc of 3rd iris st.

Shoulder {Last 6 rows}

Row 38. (RS) Ch 3, sk next 2 dc, *{(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in next ch 1 sp, sk next 4 dc} rep from * til last 18 sts, sk next st, dc in next st, turn. (Leave remaining 16 sts = [3 iris sts + 1 dc] unworked). (27, 32, 37, 42, 42, 47, 52, 57, 57 sts) = [2 dc + 5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 11 iris sts])

Rows 39-44. Rep Row 4. Continue stacking iris sts in top of iris sts. Cut yarn, leave a long tail for seaming.

Opposite Front Panel {right front when wearing}

Follow Rows 1-37 from first front panel above. Tip: On Row 37 place st marker in last dc of 3rd iris st.

Shoulder {Last 6 rows}

Row 38. Sl st over first 16 sts (or cut yarn and join to 17th st) beginning in the 17th st Ch 3, sk next dc, *{(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in next ch 1 sp, sk next 4 dc} rep from * til last 4 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch 1 sp, sk next 2 dc, dc in last st, turn. (27, 32, 37, 42, 42, 47, 52, 57, 57 sts) = [2 dc + 5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 11 iris sts])

Rows 39-44. Rep Row 4.  

Cut yarn, leave a long tail for seaming.

Seaming

  • Where pattern says to “Sew” place RS together, work on WS use mattress stitch or whip stitch to seam.

Sew shoulders of front panels to top of back panel.

Sew sides of front panels to sides of back panel from bottom, leaving 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5)” unseamed for armhole.

Sleeves

  • If you need more/less sts sleeve requires an even stitch number.
  • Worked in the round, do not turn.
  • Ch 3 counts as a dc.
  • To adjust the length of your sleeves, just add/subtract repeats of Rnd 2 for a longer/shorter length. Or leave them off for sleeveless look.

 Rnd 1. On RS, join yarn with sl st to underside of armhole, place 44 (46, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 68) dc evenly around, join to first dc with a sl st.

Rnd 2. Ch 3, fpdc, *{dc, fpdc} rep from * around, sl st to join.

Rnd 3. Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st to join. Cut yarn. 

Rep on other sleeve.

Lapel/Neck

On RS, join yarn with sl st to inside front panel on bottom right (when wearing) corner (see seaming pic above). Ch 1, sc evenly up inside of front panel, around neck line and back down opposite front panel. Cut yarn. Weave in all ends.

If you would like to close your cardigan add buttons, or a simple Fsc-foundation single crochet tie, like I did. For a more substantial belt you can see an example and pattern at the bottom of this post here.

I’d love to see your #sorellacardigan tag me @christacodesign on Instagram if you post a pic. Or share it to my Facebook Group, I love to see your work!

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