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Nebbia Sweater Free Crochet Pattern

Nebbia Sweater Free Crochet Pattern

It’s here! My first raglan style pullover sweater and I’m so excited to introduce you to the Nebbia Sweater. Named for the Italian “fog” as the yarn I used for this one gives off that cloudy halo effect. To really maximize on this brushed yarn I used an alternating front loop/back loop double crochet which allows plenty of movement and drape to show off this stunning yarn!

This sweater works up quickly and is a great crochet project for beginners or any crocheter. As you can see here I’ve styled it without another shirt, which is great for Spring since we have cool mornings and evenings. In the winter I’ll have to add another layer too.

I’ve included lots of notes, photos and even a video tutorial demonstrating how to divide the body and sleeves. If you’ve never crocheted a top down sweater I know that can sound daunting, but it really is so easy.

{*affiliates-This post contains affiliate links which means I receive a small fee if you click through and make a purchase through my links (at no additional cost to you) these allow me to keep new free patterns coming to you! Thank you for your support!}

Materials

Notes

  1. Pattern is divided into XS-2X and 3X-5X sections to start, then from the Body to the end pattern is written for all sizes.
  2. Ch 2 does not count as a st.
  3. Sweater is worked top down, raglan style.
  4. Each row is joined with a sl st and then turned to keep the seam straight. 
  5. After each increase, move the stitch marker up to the next ch 1 space. This will be where you increase on the next row.
  6. From Row 4 and on use the alt dc (alternate double crochet): start with a flo dc, then a blo dc in the next st. You will always start a row with a flo dc and end a row with a blo dc. This stitch pattern requires an even stitch count.
  7. Watch for increases to change on some sizes, they are in bold.

Stitches/Abbreviations

Foundation double crochet-fdc this is the recommended way to start top down garments, as it provides more ease, but chain start instructions are also included.

ch(s)-chain(s)

sl st-slip stitch

dc-double crochet

Alt dc-alternate dc- start with a *{flo dc in next st, blo dc in next st}; row starts with a flo and ends with a blo. St needs an even st count.sc-single crochet

rep-repeat

st(s)-stitch(es)

sk-skip the indicated stitch

Video Tutorial

Check out how to crochet the alt dc, how to divide the body and join the sleeves.


hook sweater
My Furls Streamline* 7mm in Rosewood is a fav! I love the feel of these hooks in my hand.

Gauge

4” x 4” = 10 dc x 6 rows

It is essential to work a gauge swatch and make any necessary adjustments before beginning your sweater. You want your garments to fit so take the time to check gauge!

Swatch

Fdc 12, OR Ch 14, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 2, turn. Dc in same st and in each st across, ch 2, turn. (12) Repeat 5x.

Measure 4″ by 4″ in your swatch. If your measurements don’t match gauge, adjust your hook size.

Fit

The Nebbia Sweater is comfortable and roomy with 2-4” of ease added to bust measurements. The alternate dc stitch allows for plenty of movement. For an oversized fit, size up and for a more fitted sweater, size down.

SizeBust”Body Length” Neck to HemSleeve Length” from join to before decBody Width” when flat
XS291911.515.5
S34201218
M36211219
L412212.7521.5
XL442312.7523
2X482413.525
3X522513.527
4X582614.2531
5X622714.2532.5

To adjust fit for your needs:

(keep the st count even)

  • add/subtract more sts to bust at raglan inc before dividing
  • inc/dec sleeves at any point 
  • lengthen/shorten torso add/subtract rows before hem

XS-2X Pattern (3-5X scroll down)

1. Fdc 60 OR ch 62 and dc in 3rd ch from your hook and in each ch across, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (60 sts) 

Place a stitch marker in the 13th, 19th, 43rd and 49th stitches, these will be the increase stitches. To make increasing easier, continue to move the stitch marker up to the ch 1 sp made for each row. 

2. Dc in first 12 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 23 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 11 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (68 sts)

3. Dc in first 13 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 7 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 25 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 7 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 12 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (76 sts)

From Row 4 and on use the alt dc (alternate double crochet): alternate between flo dc and blo dc. Continue in each row to blo dc into a flo dc and flo dc into a blo dc. 

4. Dc in first 14 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 9 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 27 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 9 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 13 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (84 sts)

5. Dc in first 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 11 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 29 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 11 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 14 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (92 sts)

6. Dc in first 16 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 13 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 13 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 15 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (100 sts)

7. Dc in first 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 33 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 16 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (108 sts)

8. Dc in first 18 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 35 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 17 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (116 sts)

9. Dc in first 19 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 19 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 37 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 19 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 18 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (124 sts)

10. Dc in first 20 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 21 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 39 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 21 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 19 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (132 sts) 

XS stop here & go to Body.

11. Dc in first 21 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 23 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 41, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 23 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 20 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (140 sts)

12. Dc in first 22 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 25 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 43 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 25 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 21 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (148 sts) 

S stop here & go to Body.

13. Dc in first 23 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 27 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 45 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 27 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 22 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (156 sts) 

M stop here & go to Body.

14.Dc in first 24 sts, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 29 sts, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 47 sts, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 29 sts, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 23 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (172 sts) 

L stop here & go to Body.

15. Dc in first 26 sts, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 33 sts, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 51 sts, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 33 sts, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 25 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (188 sts) 

XL stop here & go to Body.

16. Dc in first 28 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 37 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 55 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 37 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 27 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (204 sts) 

2X stop here & go to Body.

3X-5X

  1. Fdc 68 OR ch 70 and dc in 3rd ch from your hook and in each ch across, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (68 sts) Place a stitch marker in the 14th, 22nd, 48th and 56th stitches, these will be the increase stitches. To make increasing easier, continue to move the stitch marker up to the ch 1 sp made for each row.
  2. Dc in first 13 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 7 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 25 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 7 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 12 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (76 sts)
  3. Dc in first 14 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 9 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 27 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 9 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 13 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (84 sts) * From Row 4 and on use the alt dc (alternate double crochet): alternate between flo dc and blo dc. Continue in each row to blo dc into a flo dc and flo dc into a blo dc.
  4. Dc in first 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 11 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 29 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 11 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 14 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (92 sts)
  5. Dc in first 16 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 13 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 13 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 15 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (100 sts)
  6. Dc in first 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 33 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 15 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 16 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (108 sts)
  7. Dc in first 18 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 35 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 17 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 17 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (116 sts)
  8. Dc in first 19 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 19 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 37 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 19 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 18 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (124 sts)
  9. Dc in first 20 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 21 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 39 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 21 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 19 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (132 sts)
  10. Dc in first 21 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 23 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 41, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 23 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 20 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (148 sts)
  11. Dc in first 23 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 27 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 45 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 27 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 22 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (164 sts)
  12. Dc in first 25 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 31 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 49 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 31 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 24 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (180 sts)
  13. Dc in first 27 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 35 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 53 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 35 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 26 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (196 sts)
  14. Dc in first 29 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 39 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 57 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 39 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 28 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (212 sts)
  15. Dc in first 31 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 43 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 61 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 43 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 30 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (228 sts) 3X Stop here & go to Body.
  16. Dc in first 33 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 47 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 65 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 47 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 32 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (252 sts) 4X Stop here & go to Body.
  17. Dc in first 36 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 53 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 71 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in next 53 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, dc in last 35 sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (268 sts) 5X Stop here & go to Body.

Body

  • All sizes, written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
  • Row count starts over.
  • Ch 1 from the increases count as a st.
  • To divide: Match up your first & last sk sts, sl st these together and remember to place 1 dc in each as they count as stitches. It is a good idea to try it on to check for fit.
  • Once divided you’ll need an even number of stitches on the body and both sleeves to continue the flo/blo dc pattern.
raglan sweater divide
raglan top
  1. Dc in first 20 (23, 24, 27, 29, 31, 34, 38, 40) sts, sk next 26 (28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 46, 50, 54) sts (sleeve sts), dc in next 40 (46, 48, 54, 58, 62, 68, 76, 80) sts, sk next 26 (28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 46, 50, 54) sts (sleeve sts), dc in last 20 (23, 24, 27, 29, 31, 34, 38, 40) sts, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn.
divide sleeves

XS: 132 sts divided into 80 body sts, 26 ea sleeve sts

S: 148 sts divided into 92 body sts, 28 ea sleeve sts

M: 156 sts divided into 96 body sts, 30 ea sleeve sts

L: 172 sts divided into 108 body sts, 32 ea sleeve sts

XL: 188 sts divided into 116 body sts, 36 ea sleeve sts

2X: 204 sts divided into 124 body sts, 40 ea sleeve sts

3X: 228 sts divided into 136 body sts, 46 ea sleeve sts 

4X: 252 sts divided into 152 body sts, 50 ea sleeve sts 

5X: 268 sts divided into 160 body sts, 54 ea sleeve sts

sweater body
sleeve hole

2. Dc in each st around, sl st to first st to join, ch 2, turn. (80, 92, 96, 108, 116, 124, 136, 152, 160 sts)

sweater body

Rep last row for 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18) more rows or 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27)” or to desired length. Hem adds 1.5”.

Hem

Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st to first st to join, turn. Repeat last row for 4 rows total or 1.5” Fasten off & weave in ends.

Sleeves

  • Row count starts over.
  • Join yarn with sl st to the last st on the underside of sleeve. Sl st first and last st of sleeve together. Be sure to place a dc in each of these sts, as they count as sleeve stitches. There will be a small gap in the armpit, when finishing we will sew this closed.
  • Continue working in alternate flo/blo dc for the sleeves, except during the decrease section.
sleeves

1. Ch 2, dc in same st and in each st around, sl st to 1st st to join, turn. (26, 28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 46, 50, 54 sts)

Rep Row 1 for 14 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17 ,18, 18) more rows (from the divide) or for 10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14)” 

Decrease

  • Start the decrease about 3” above where you want your sleeve to end. I would recommend decreasing under both loops and not in flo/blo alternate dc.

Row 16 (17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20) Ch 2, dc in first 4 sts, dc2tog, *{dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog} rep from * around, dc to end, sl st to first st to join, turn. (22, 24, 25, 29, 30, 38, 43, 46, 45 sts)

Row 16 (17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 21) Ch 2, dc in first 3 sts, dc2tog, *{dc in next 3, dc2tog} rep from * around, dc to end, sl st to first st to join, turn. (18, 20, 20, 20, 24, 24, 31, 35, 36 sts)

Cuff

Ch 1, sc in the same and in ea st around, sl st to first st to join, turn.

Repeat last row for 4 rows total or 1.5” 

Fasten off & weave in ends. 

Repeat for the other sleeve.

sewing hole

Finishing

 Use tail from joining to sleeves (or a length of yarn) to seam armpit gap closed.

Weave in ends. 

 I’d love to see your #nebbiasweater tag me @christacodesign on  Instagram if you post a pic. Or share it to my Facebook Group, I love to see your work!

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