Cozy Crochet Cardigan Hygge Homebody Pattern

The Hygge Homebody is a cozy crochet cardigan that’s great for at home or a night out. The long length makes this comfy cardigan a perfect with leggings. The Hygge Homebody Cardigan is available in sizes S-5X and includes picture and video tutorials.

Just as the name implies, it’s like wearing a big hug! Hygge, pronounced hue-ga is a Danish term that has to do with all things snuggly and comfortable. And I just could not think of a better term to fit this cozy crochet cardigan.

At home

My kids and I have loved cuddling on the couch in this cozy crochet cardigan. I tend to wear mine in the morning and evening, when the weather is cooler. These also happen to be the times when my kids want to snuggle most. They love to wrap up in it so we can read a book.

Recently we took the kids to see a movie and it was one of those theaters that has the reclining chairs. I didn’t realize it before hand, and I was debating on whether to wear my Hygge Homebody Cardigan because it was warmer that day.

I decided to bring it just in case I was cold, and I’m so glad I did! Those reclining chairs were made for this sweater. I was so cozy and relaxed, partly due to my cuddly cardigan and partly due to a movie that captured my kids’ attention!

If it’s cool in the mornings (and it is almost everyday still) I wear my cozy crochet cardigan out to drop kids off at school. When I want to wear it all day, it pairs beautifully with leggings or skinny jeans.

It has plenty of *ahem* backside coverage, haha. I’m sure there are plenty of you lovely ladies who can pull off leggings without a long cardigan, but I am not one of those!

The Stitch

The stitch I chose for this cozy crochet cardigan is easy & has gorgeous drape. The Pike Stitch (or extended sc) works up so so quickly. Truly, once you get the rhythm you’ll be able to crochet it with your eyes closed.

I won’t tell you how I could crochet this stitch in the near dark with only the bathroom light on while I waited for my littles to fall asleep because that would be bad advice! But it is that easy! Which means your large pieces work up fast.

The Yarn

I wanted this crochet cardigan to be as accessible and “doable” for as many of you as possible. To make that happen I used Joann’s Big Twist Value worsted weight yarn, which has many comparable substitutes.

Their yarn is affordable, especially when you need 5-6 skeins for a cardigan. The array of colors this yarn comes in is amazing and I’m already looking forward to making more in different color combos!

The Construction

The construction of this crochet cardigan is simple. You crochet up a few rectangles, just like you would work a blanket.

The sleeves have some decreases, but I’ve provided a detailed photo tutorial and video for the decrease. Adding the edging for hem and sleeve cuffs may be a new technique for some so again I’ve included plenty of pictures.

The neck of the Hygge Homebody Cardigan may be my favorite part. It’s soft and squishy and just what I want warming my neck. It’s what makes this cozy crochet cardigan so comfy.

Some sewing is required to join your pieces, here’s a quick seaming video, if you haven’t done that before. A simple sewing stitch I like is the mattress stitch. Plus I include pictures of these steps too.

Cozy Crochet Cardigan Patterns to Love

Positano Pocket Cardigan features pockets in the seams. The Spring Cardi is a top down cardigan with no seaming. The Sera Cardigan is bottom up, with a classic fit.

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Materials

Pictured is size Medium using 5 skeins of Big Twist Value in Light Rose*

• #4 worsted weight yarn approximately by size:
• S 1710yds/1564m
• M 1900yds/1738m
• L 2090yds/1911m
• XL 2280yds/2084m
• 2X 2470ydds/2259m
• 3X 2660yds/2432m
• 4X 2850yds/2606m
• 5X 3040yds/2780m
• I/5.5mm hook*
• yarn needle*, scissors, pins, measuring tape

 Notes

1. Please read through entire pattern and create a gauge swatch before beginning.
2. Stitch Multiple is an even number, plus 2 for the foundation.
3. Pattern is written for multiple sizes with the smallest size first, S-M-L-XL-2X-3X-4X-5X. For example: Ch 72-82-90-98-104-110-116-124 means size small would chain 72 and 4X would chain 116.
4. Stitch counts are given at the end of the instructions with all sizes within the parenthesis (S-M-L-XL-2X-3X-4X-5X sts)
5. Ch 3 counts as an exsc + ch 1

Stitches Used

Click any of the links below for the video tutorial.

exsc-extended single crochet-insert hook into the stitch to be worked, yarn over & pull up a loop, yo and pull through 1 loop, yo and pull through 2 loops

ch-chain

sc-single crochet

blo-back loop only-crochet into the back loop only, instead of under the top two loops like normal.

hdc-half double crochet

hdc in the 3rd loop– Looking at the back of your hdc stitches, there is a distinct horizontal line that runs across the stitch. This is considered the 3rd loop and where we’ll be inserting the hook for the rest of the rows.

Gauge

4″ x 4″ = 14 sts x 10 rows in the pattern

Fit/Sizing

To Fit Actual Bust Size

34” (S), 38” (M), 42” (L), 46” (XL), 50” (2X), 54” (3X), 58” (4X), 62” (5X)

Finished Bust Size

This pattern includes a positive ease of 6-8″ where the finished bust size is larger than the actual bust.

40” (S), 46” (M), 50” (L), 54” (XL), 58” (2X), 62” (3X), 66” (4X), 70” (5X)

ChristaCoDesign patterns use Craft Yarn Council sizing standards.

Adjustments

This cardigan will stretch most in length, as one would expect. Mine has been washed and worn for at least a month and has stretched 2.5″ in length. Where it once stopped above my knee, it now reaches below it. But I’m only 5′ 2.”

I am loving my cardigan’s length, but you can easily adjust the length of this pattern by making more or less rows. If you change the number of rows be sure to make both the back and front panels the same length.

For a more snug fit, go down a size. Likewise, for a looser fit, go up a size.

Pattern

Back Panel

Pike stitch video tutorial (row 1)

Ch 72-82-90-98-104-110-116-124

Row 1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 *(sk 1 ch, exsc in next ch, ch 1) repeat from * across to last ch, place 1 exsc in last ch, turn. (71-81-89-97-103-109-115-123 sts) See the photo & video tutorial for Row 1 here.

Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as an exsc + ch 1), sk next ch, exsc in next exsc, ch 1, *{sk next ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} rep from * across to last two sts, sk next ch, exsc in last sc, turn. (71-81-89-97-103-109-115-123 sts)

Row 3. Ch 3 (counts as an exsc + ch 1), sk next ch, exsc in next exsc, ch 1, *{sk next ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} rep from * across to last two sts, sk 3rd ch, exsc in 2nd ch, turn. (71-81-89-97-103-109-115-123 sts)

Rep Row 3 until you have 83 rows, or to your desired length.

Front Panels, make 2.

Ch 36-42-46-50-52-56-60-62

Row 1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 *(sk 1 ch, exsc in next ch, ch 1) repeat from * across to last ch, place 1 exsc in last ch, turn. (35-41-45-49-51-55-59-61 sts) See the photo & video tutorial for Row 1 here.

Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as an exsc + ch 1), sk next ch, exsc in next exsc, ch 1, *{sk next ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} rep from * across to last two sts, sk next ch, exsc in last sc, turn. (35-41-45-49-51-55-59-61 sts)

Row 3. Ch 3 (counts as an exsc + ch 1), sk next ch, exsc in next exsc, ch 1, *{sk next ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} rep from * across to last two sts, sk 3rd ch, exsc in 2nd ch, turn. (35-41-45-49-51-55-59-61 sts)

Rep Row 3 until you have 83 rows, or to your desired length.

Sleeves

Make 2

 Ch 50-54-58-60-66-68-72-74

Row 1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 *(sk 1 ch, exsc in next ch, ch 1) repeat from * across to last ch, place 1 exsc in last ch, turn. (49-53-57-59-65-67-71-73 sts) See the photo & video tutorial for Row 1 here.

Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as an exsc + ch 1), sk next ch, exsc in next exsc, ch 1, *{sk next ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} rep from * across to last two sts, sk next ch, exsc in last sc, turn. (49-53-57-59-65-67-71-73 sts)

Row 3. Ch 3 (counts as an exsc + ch 1), sk next ch, exsc in next exsc, ch 1, *{sk next ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} rep from * across to last two sts, sk 3rd ch, exsc in 2nd ch, turn. (49-53-57-59-65-67-71-73 sts)

Rep Row 3 until you have 9 rows.

Notes

From here you will decrease on each of the indicated rows below. To decrease you will use the sc2tog technique to decrease exsc sts, written as “exsc2tog” on the 2nd & 3rd exsc stitches of the indicated rows and on the 3rd & 2nd stitches from the end of the same row. EXSC2TOG: Watch the video on how to decrease this stitch.

To decrease on the indicated row (by size below):

To start a decrease row

Step 1. Ch 3 (counts), insert hook into the next exsc, yo and pull up a loop, (2 loops on your hook),

Step 2. Skip the ch, insert hook into the next exsc, yo and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook)

Step 3. Yo and draw through all 3 loops, ch 1, continue normally with *(exsc, ch1, sk next ch) until the 3rd exsc from the end of the row.

To end a decrease row

Step 1. At the 3rd exsc from the end of the row, insert hook into the 3rd exsc from end, yo and pull up a loop, (2 loops on your hook),

Step 2. Skip the ch, insert hook into the 2nd exsc from end, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook),

Step 3. Yo and draw through all 3 loops, ch1,

Step 4. End with an exsc in the 2nd chain as normal.

On to the Sleeve Pattern {continued from Row 9}

Row 10. Ch 3, exsc2tog, *(exsc in next exsc, ch 1, sk next ch) rep from * to last 5 sts, exsc2tog, ch 1, exsc in 2nd ch, turn. (45-49-53-55-61-63-67-69 sts)

Rows 11-19. Rep Row 3. 

Row 20. Rep Row 10.  (43-47-51-53-59-61-65-67 sts)

Rows 21-24. Rep Row 3.

Row 25. Rep Row 10.  (41-45-49-51-57-59-63-65 sts)

Rows 26-29. Rep Row 3.

Row 30. Rep Row 10.  (39-43-47-49-55-57-61-63 sts)

Small Only Rows 31-38. Rep Row 3. 

Med Only Rows 31-40. Rep Row 3.

Large/X-Large Only Rows 31-43. Rep Row 3.

2X/3X Only Rows 31-45. Rep Row 3.

4X/5X Only Rows 31-47. Rep Row 3.

Cut yarn.

Sewing your pieces together:

 Sew where indicated using a yarn needle and length of yarn. You may use either the whip stitch or mattress stitch.

Lay front panels on back panel with right sides touching. Sew top of front panels to back panel.

To Attach Sleeves To The Shoulders Of Your Sweater

Lay out your cardigan. Find the middle of the widest
end of your sleeve and line it up at the shoulder seam.

Line up the corner touching the back panel at row (counting from the shoulder seam down) 17-19-21-23-25-25-27-27.

Line up the other corner on the front panel with row (counting from the shoulder seam down) 17-19-21-23-25-25-27-27.

Sew sleeves to body of cardigan.

To attach sleeves to the shoulders of your sweater:

 Lay out your cardigan. Find the middle of the widest end of your sleeve and line it up at the shoulder seam.

Line up the corner touching the back panel at row (counting from the shoulder seam down) 17-19-21-23-25-25-27-27.

Line up the other corner on the front panel with row (counting from the shoulder seam down) 17-19-21-23-25-25-27-27. Sew sleeves to body of cardigan.

Sew the cardigan sides and sleeves together:

Fold cardigan together inside out, so front panels are on top of the back panel and sleeves are together. Use a yarn needle and length of yarn to sew sides and sleeves together in one seam.

 Start at the bottom where the panels meet and sew up, following the armpit and continue sewing along the sleeves. Shown by the white lines in the picture above. Repeat on other side.

 SLEEVE CUFFS

{Make 2}

*note the tutorial shows a different hook size.

These are crocheted separately and then sewn on.

Row 2. Ch 1, sc in 1st stitch, sc in blo of next 6 sts, sc in last, turn. (8 sts)

• 

Repeat row 2 for 22-22-24-24-26-26-28-28 more rows.

Cut yarn, leave a long tail & sew short ends together to form the cuff.

Sew Cuffs

Now fit the cuff over the end of the sleeve. Stretch cuff to fit and pin in 4 spots. Then sew cuff to sleeve. Cut yarn. Repeat for other cuff.

• 

On the left the cuff is shown down, the one on the right the cuff is flipped up. The sleeves can be worn either way.

Bottom Hem Edge:

Notes

Be sure to check out my video for How to add crochet ribbing, if you’d like to see it in action.

 This is the same ribbing technique that we used with the sleeve cuffs, we’ll be crocheting and attaching it to the bottom of the cardigan as we go.

See the pictures below for exactly how to do it. You can also crochet the ribbing separately and sew it on like the sleeve cuffs.

*note the tutorial shows a different hook size.

Hem Instructions

Lay out your cardigan, position yourself at the neck, join yarn with a sl st to the corner of the bottom of the front panel on your left.

Ch 5

Row 1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4 sts)

To attach to cardigan as you go:

You can also watch a video on how to attach the hem as you go around the edge.

Row 1. Sc2tog through the two rows on the cardigan body right where you’re adding edging, sc2tog does not count as a stitch, ch 1, turn and continue working in the 4 sc stitches.

When your sc row brings you back to the cardigan bottom, insert your hook in the stitch of that row, yo & pull up a loop.

Then insert your hook in the next row’s stitch, yo and pull up a loop.

And yo, pull through all 3 loops on your hook, ch 1, turn and continue working the next row out and back.

When you return to the cardigan body repeat the above steps to attach the newest two rows of ribbing to it.

Row 2. Ch 1, sc in last sc from 1st row, sc in blo of next 2 sts, sc in last, turn. (4 sts)

 Row 3. Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, sc in blo of next 2 sts, sc in last st, attach to next two cardigan rows with sc2tog, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 around, attaching the edging as you go with a sc2tog. Finish off.

Front edge/collar:

With cardigan laid flat, right side up facing you, position yourself at the bottom end of the cardigan and attach yarn with sl st at the bottom of the front panel on your left.

Row 1. Ch 2, hdc evenly up the front panel, around the neck and back down the opposite front panel, turn.

Looking at the back of your hdc stitches from row 1, there is a distinct horizontal line that runs across the stitch. This is considered the 3rd loop and where we’ll be inserting the hook for the rest of the rows. See pictures below. See 3rd Loop Video Tutorial for more help on this step.

• 

Row 2. Ch 2, hdc in 1st, hdc in 3rd loop of each hdc around, hdc in last, turn.

Repeat row 2 for 3 to 10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17 more rows, or til collar is (2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.75, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5)” wide.

Optional Pockets:

Ch 24

Row 1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 *(sk 1 ch, exsc in next ch, ch 1) repeat from * across to last ch, place 1 exsc in last ch, turn. (23 sts)

Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as an exsc + ch 1), sk next ch, exsc in next exsc, ch 1, *{sk next ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} rep from * across to last two sts, sk next ch, exsc in last sc, turn. (23 sts)

Repeat row 2 for 14 more rows, don’t finish off.

Top of pocket ribbing:

Ch 5, 

Row 1. Sc in 2nd ch fro hook and in each ch across. (4)

Attach to pocket with sc2tog as you go, in the same manner as the bottom edging for the cardigan, turn.

Row 2. Ch 1, sc in last sc from 1st row, sc in blo of next 2, sc in last, turn. (4)

Row 3. Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in blo of next 2, sc in last, sc2tog to attach, turn. (4)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the pocket, leave a long tail to sew pocket on.

Finished pocket measures: 6″ tall by 6.5″ wide

Position Pocket:

Position pocket at hip height, or desired placement. Line up the pocket row for row. Pin in place.

Sew pockets down along 3 edges, leaving top open. Cut yarn, weave in all ends.

I’d love to see your #hyggehomebody tag me @christacodesign on Instagram if you post a pic. Or share it to my Facebook Group, I love to see your work!