Summer’s End Crochet Cardigan Free Pattern

Summer’s End Crochet Cardigan Free Pattern

Join the Summer’s End CAL, happening June 30th! Get the details here!

Well no matter where you are or how the weather’s treating you, it’s pretty official that summer’s over. While we’ll miss those warm days at the pool, autumn brings fun of it’s own. Say goodbye to summer and hello to fall with the Summer’s End Cardigan. The short sleeves and hip length make it the perfect grab and go for those cool mornings that aren’t quite freezing just yet!

I love fall. The cooler weather, the autumn activities, but most I love all.the.crocheting. But, cool mornings and warm afternoons require layers. So I wanted a go to short sleeve cardigan that would be easy to wear, easy to layer and easy to feature. With three different ways to wear it, it doesn’t get much more flexible than this cardigan.

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I fell in love with this yarn when I first laid eyes on it. It’s Lion Brand’s Flikka yarn, which is a cotton/poly blend. I love natural fibers and this yarn has the added benefit of strength from the poly blend. My only complaint is that I envisioned the sleeves and hem in contrast. It would look lovely in any of the colors in this yarn, but alas there are no solids in Flikka (yet?). But it turned out great and I’m so happy with it.

If you’re new to crocheting garments, never fear. This piece is worked in two long rectangles. Yes, you do have to seam them together, but that bit is easy. Once you learn seaming (thank you YouTube for so many great videos), you really open up what you can do with your crochet. Seaming a sweater is not unlike seam squares of a blanket. I dare say it’s easy, as there are fewer seams.

After seaming the back and sides then you add the sleeve edging and hem edging. The bottom hem, lapel and neckline are all crocheted in one long round. Adding the hem at this point allows you to add a few extra inches. But if you prefer a longer cardigan I’ve added a few notes on that as well.

Read on for all the details and pattern below.

You can also purchase the affordable ad-free pattern in my shops: Etsy or Ravelry.

open front

back view

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Estimated yardage by size: 

XS-800, S-900, M-1000, L-1200, XL-1400, 2X-1600, 3X-1800, 4X-2000, 5X-2200 yds


  • This cardigan is worked in two panels of back and forth rows, then they’re are sewn together forming the back. The sides are then sewn together, leaving the armhole open. The sleeves and edge/hem are added in rounds.
  • Ch 3 counts as a stitch, I highly recommend using a ch 3 alternative, like one of these.
  • The stitch multiple is 3 plus 4 if chaining for the foundation row, or 3 plus 2 if using fdc.
  • Pattern is written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)


fdc-foundation double crochet {chain instructions also provided}

RS-right side WS-wrong side


dc-double crochet 

sc-single crochet

sl st-slip stitch

dc3tog-Cluster Stitch: tutorial here


4 rows in the pattern {3 dc rows +1 cluster row} = 2.5” tall & 7 dc in 2”


Row 1. Fdc 14 or ch 16, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.

Row 2. Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn.

Row 3. Rep last row again.

Row 4. Ch 4 (counts as a dc + ch 1), in next 3 sts dc3tog, *{ch 2, in next 3 sts dc3tog} rep from * across, ch 1, dc in last st (3rd ch).

Measure gauge and adjust hook size if needed.

Video Tutorials available here.


The pattern is written to include positive ease, meaning the garment measurements are larger than the actual body measurements. The fit of this cardigan is loose and hip length, I can easily overlap the front panels over my chest. The bottom hem reaches just past my bottom. 


To customize the length of this cardigan measure from your shoulder down to where you’d like the hem to hit on you. Multiply this number by 2. This is the desired length of your panels. These measurements do not include the sc edging rounds. If you are adding rows to get extra length be sure to end after 3 dc rows. To adjust width, increase the stitch count in multiples of 3. Keep in mind adjustments will effect the amount of yarn you need. 

Dimensions in inches:

Bust Size”

Pattern Size Panel Width” Panel Length





































*These measurements do not include the sc edging rounds.

Video Tutorial


Make 2

1. (WS) Fdc 32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 53, 59, 62, 65) or Ch 34 (37, 40, 43, 46, 55, 61, 64, 67) and dc in 4th ch from hook (2 dcs formed) and in each ch across, turn. (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 53, 59, 62, 65 sts)

2. Ch 3, dc in next dc and in each dc across, turn. 

3. Rep last row.


4. (RS) Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), in next 3 sts dc3tog, *{ch 2, dc3tog} rep from * across until last st, ch 1, dc into last st (3rd ch), turn. (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 53, 59, 62, 65 sts)

5. Ch 3, dc in each ch sp (placing 2 dc in each ch 2 sp) and st across, the last 2 dcs will go in the 4th and 3rd ch, turn.

6. Ch 3, dc in next dc and in each dc across, turn.

7. Rep last row.


Rep Rows 4-7: 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26) more times, for a total of 67 (71, 75, 79, 83, 95, 99, 107, 111) rows, or 41 (44, 47, 49, 52, 59, 62, 66.5, 69.5).” 

Cut yarn & weave in ends.

crochet panels


Video Tutorial

Seam the back

*Since the panels are seamed to form the back and then folded over the shoulder to form the front panels this will result in one side (your front or back) being “upside down.” If you have a preference on which you see in the front then orient them that way. Just be sure both panels are facing the same way (ie. both row 1 on the bottom) before seaming them together.

crochet panelscrochet cardigan seamcrochet cardigan backseat

  1. Lay the two panels side by side, with the “right sides” facing down.
  2. Use your stitch marker to mark where to stop sewing for the back seam: Seam together bottom up (row 1) through:Row 33 (34, 35, 36, 37, 39, 41, 45, 47), or for 20 (21, 22, 22.5, 23, 24, 26, 28, 29) inches.
  3. Thread needle with a length of yarn (double the number of inches you need to sew is usually plenty), and sew the back panels together. You may use a whip stitch or mattress stitch to sew. Start from the bottom and stop where you marked. If sewing isn’t your thing, use a slip stitch.

side seams

Seam the sides

  1. Fold over the front panels, line up the bottoms so they’re even-notice the back is not sewn all the way up to the top of the shoulder.
  2. Sew front panel sides up until 6.5” (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches are left to the fold of the shoulder.

 cardigan sleeve


Video Tutorial

Join yarn with a sl st to the underside of armhole.

  1. Ch 1, sc in the same st and evenly around the armhole, join with sl st to the first sc.
  2. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each sc around, join with sl st to the first sc.
  3. -10. Rep Round 2. Finish off. 10 rounds = 2.25”

Rep for other sleeve.



Video Tutorial

With cardigan laid out upside down in front of you (neck toward you and bottom hem away from you) join yarn with a sl st to the corner of front panel on your left.


Back of neck:

back of neck

The bottom hem and lapel are worked all together in rounds.

  1. Ch 1, sc in the same and in each st around, at the corners place (sc,ch1, sc) all in the same st and continue to sc evenly up the inside lapel, back down and around, joining to the first sc with a sl st.
  2. Ch 1, sc in same and in each sc around, placing (sc, ch 1, sc) all in the ch 1 sp at the corners.
  3. -5. Rep Round 2. Finish off.


Belt (optional) 

This XS in Mandala Sparkle is the gorgeous work of Karen Cobb. 

skinny belt

First decide if you’d like to add belt loops or thread your belt through the holes.

If you’d like a thin belt to thread through the holes then do a foundation single crochet to your desired length-long enough to wrap around your waist with extra to tie a bow. I like this option because it’s thin and stretchy.

If you’d like a more substantial belt, decide how wide you want it, then chain to that width. Below is Heidi’s beautiful version and she added the perfect size belt. I love the contrast and the fall colors she chose.


Belt Pattern 1.5” wide 

  1. Ch 7, sc in the 2nd chain from your hook and across, turn. (6) 
  2. Ch 1, sc in the same and in each sc across, turn. (6)
  3. Rep Row 2 until the desired length is reached. Cut yarn & weave in ends.

Add Belt Loops

Find your natural waist while wearing the cardigan. Mark the sides of the cardigan at the waist. Since our belt is 1.5” wide we want the belt loop to be a little bigger to facilitate easy of threading the belt through, but not so big that the belt sags. So let’s add .25” to the width of our belt loop placing. Mark two spots for the top of the belt loop and the bottom, 1.75” apart. The belt loop itself will be a little larger than this space, allowing room for the belt to fit. 

Join yarn with a sl st to the top marked stitch, chain 9 (2” for a 1.5” belt) and sl st to the bottom marked stitch and finish off. Thread your belt through and tie! 

I added a belt loop in green-below (so you could see it). Join yarn with a sl st to the top marked stitch, chain 9 (2” for a 1.5” belt) and sl st to the bottom marked stitch and finish off. Thread your belt through and tie! 

belt loops

I did a short tie (fsc) that is only thread through the front to keep it closed.   

wrap front

I like that I can wrap the front panels and secure them.

I hope you enjoyed making the #summersendcardi tag me @christacodesign on Instagram if you post a pic. Or share it to my Facebook Group, I love to see your work. 

Or pin it here:

crochet cardigan

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