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Alpine Stitch Crochet Tutorial

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Learn how to crochet the Alpine Stitch. This eye catching crochet stitch creates a highly textured fabric that’s perfect for hats, scarves, blankets and more.

The step by step tutorial shows you how to crochet the Alpine Stitch. There are photos for each step of the process. Read more about this stitch and yarn, or scroll down for the tutorial.

About the Yarn Used

For this Alpine Stitch tutorial I’m using a #5 bulky weight yarn. This stitch crochets up beautifully in a variety of yarns. I’ve also crocheted the alpine stitch in #4 medium weight yarn with gorgeous results.

Post stitches, like the one used in the Alpine Stitch can be yarn eaters. Even when crocheting a taller stitch, like the front post treble stitch used here, you lose some height going around the post of the stitch.

On the other hand, one benefit to this yarn hungry Alpine Stitch is that you can crochet up a warm and cozy project!

About the Alpine Stitch

The Alpine Stitch is composed of a 4 row repeat. Two of those rows are simple single crochets. The other two rows are front post and double crochet stitches alternating across the row.

For this Alpine Stitch Tutorial I’ve used the front post treble crochet. The Alpine Stitch can also be crocheted with front post double crochet. The choice is really yours, or your pattern’s.

Since you are skipping the single crochet rows and working into the previous row (of dcs), it makes sense to me to use the treble stitch. It’s a bit taller stitch so the work lays nice and flat.

However, I think using the front post double crochet would give you an even cozier project. As long as your tension isn’t too tight. If you work is curling on you, that’s a clue that your tension may be too tight.

To remedy that curling, you can try the front post treble crochet instead of the front post double crochet. Or you can go up a hook size, giving you a larger, looser stitch.

Again, for this tutorial I used the front post treble crochet. To use the front post double crochet, the Alpine Stitch is made the same way, just with a different stitch.

Why I Love the Alpine Stitch

Well, for one, the texture is amazing! And this is the type of cozy crochet stitch I just want to wrap up in.

Another reason I like the Alpine Stitch is the single crochet rows. Breaking up the post stitch rows with rows of single crochet helps to control the stretching.

Front post stitches make great ribbing, because they stretch! This is wonderful if you’re making a hat brim or another item that you want to stretch. But we don’t always want so much stretch.

Adding the single crochet row to every other row, helps to control that stretch some. But you’re still getting the benefit of a little stretch and a lot of texture in the Alpine Stitch.

What To Be Aware Of With The Alpine Stitch

In it’s standard form the Alpine Stitch edges aren’t great. There are turning chains, that you don’t work into. There are post stitches at the end of rows, so that creates larger gaps.

In short, the edges on this stitch are inconsistent and a bit wonky to use a technical term. If I were designing a piece with this stitch, I would take that into consideration and alter the edges to fit my needs.

When I designed the Matteo Set: Hat, Fingerless Gloves, and Scarf I used front post and back post double crochet stitches. To avoid the edges being out of wack, I made sure to end on a regular double crochet for all the edges.

My crochet designer friend, Tasha at Stardust Gold Crochet, noticed the same thing about this beautiful Alpine Stitch. She created a tutorial for the version-called the Raised Ripple Stitch that fixes those edges.



  1. The turning chains at the beginning of each row do not count as a stitch: Ch 1, Ch 2, and Ch 3 depending on the stitch you’re starting with do not count.
  2. Stitch multiple is an odd number.

Stitches/Abbreviations (US Terms)


dc-double crochet

fdc-foundation double crochet

FPtr-front post treble crochet


sk-skip the indicated stitch


Watch the full step by step Alpine Stitch video tutorial on my YouTube.




I think the trickiest part of the Alpine Stitch is that once you get to the front post rows, you’re crocheting in the both the row below the one you’re on and the row you’re on. So you’re going up and down. Once you get that figured it out, it helps.

Another thing to look out for is how the stitches do (or don’t line up). Since you’re alternating double crochets in the row you’re working and front post treble crochets in the row below, there will be skipped single crochet stitches inbetween the double crochets. This is due to the front post treble crochet going down to the row below.

Plus, our stitches lean so sometimes it can be difficult to pin point which one lines up with the one below. All this sorts itself out once you get a full repeat going. Like most crochet stitches, it gets easier as you go!

Alpine Stitch Video Tutorial

Watch the full step by step Alpine Stitch video tutorial on my YouTube.

picture of alpine stitch crochet tutorial

Alpine Stitch

Yield: 1
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Active Time: 15 minutes
Additional Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Intermediate
Estimated Cost: $1

Learn how to crochet the Alpine Stitch.


  • any weight yarn, pictured is Color Made Easy a #5 bulky weight yarn


  • crochet hook compatible with your yarn, pictured is a 6.5mm ergonomic Furls Odyssey


    1. Fdc 15 or ch 17, dc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs don't count) and in each ch across, turn. (15 sts) picture of double crochet row
    2. Ch 1, sc in same st and each st across, turn. (15 sts)picture of pink single crochet row
    3. Ch 2, dc in same st, picture of ch 2 start row 3 *{FPtr in 2nd dc of row before, dc in next sc} picture of dc after post stitch alpine tutorial picture of dc and fptr st repeat rep from * across picture of crochet fptr stitch with dc across you will end with a dc in last st, turn. picture of row 3 complete alpine stitch
    4. Ch 1, sc in same st and each st across, turn. (15 sts) picture of single crochet row 4
    5. Ch 3, FPtr in first dc of row before, picture of first fptr row 5 dc in next sc picture of next dc row 5 *{FPtr in first dc of row before, dc in next sc} rep from * across til 1 sc left, picture of row 5 post stitches and dc alternating FPtr in last dc of previous row, picture of last fptr stitchturn.
      Rep rows 2-5.

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