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Women’s Crochet Summer Top Pattern | Belinda Top

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The Belinda Top crochet pattern for women is a lightweight, sleeveless shirt with just a hint of a cap sleeve. This beauty crochets up simply with two rectangles. 

The Belinda is the perfect first garment for crocheters since the construction is so easy. The crochet top pattern includes 9 women’s sizes.

Woman outside in front of vine wearing beige crochet top.

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I love how the stitch design worked up to have minimal “holes” so I don’t feel like I need to have another layer on underneath. The Belinda can be styled up or down. It’s simple enough to wear around during the day and snazzy enough for an evening out with the right accessories.

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Close up of stitch pattern on women's crochet summer top.

This pattern is written for women’s sizes XS-5X, and is easy to customize by adding or taking away four stitches at a time.

To keep this top lightweight and summer ready I use a #3 DK weight yarn. I do think a #4 medium worsted weight yarn will work, especially if it’s on the thinner size. Always be sure to work a gauge swatch, no matter your yarn choice.

Side view of womens crochet top.

The ease on this crochet top is 1″ – 4″ depending on where you fall in the size range. I love how it gives a little cap sleeve effect here.

For reference Size M is shown on 36″ bust model.

Back view of length on womens summer crochet top.

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Materials

  • 3.5 mm US Hook Size E*, or hook needed to meet gauge.
  • Measuring tape, yarn needle, stitch marker (2) optional, and scissors
  • #3 lightweight/DK yarn pictured in Berroco Comfort DK* (50% Super Fine Nylon, 50% Super Fine Acrylic, 1.75 oz / 50 g, 178 yd / 165 m) color: barley.

Yarn by Size (Sleeveless)

  • XS – 5 balls (890 yd / 825 m)
  • S – 6 balls (1068 yd / 990 m)
  • M – 6 balls (1068 yd / 990 m)
  • L – 7 balls (1246 yd / 1155 m)
  • XL – 7 balls (1246 yd / 1155 m)
  • 2X – 8 balls (1424 yd / 1320 m)
  • 3X – 9 balls (1602 yd / 1485 m)
  • 4X – 9 balls (1602 yd / 1485 m)
  • 5X – 10 balls (1780 yd /1650 m)

Notes

  1. Starting ch 3 counts as a dc, standing stitches are a great alternative, you can see my tutorial for my favorites.
  2. The stitch multiple is 4 plus 4 for the foundation row.
  3. Pattern is written as a multi size pattern where the first number is the smaller size, and each number following is inside the parenthesis and the next size up: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). 
  4. Stitch counts are given after the row instructions, with all numbers inside the parentheses ( ).

Stitches/Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch – chain

dc – double crochet

rnd – round

rep – repeat

RS – right side

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

st (s) – stitches

pm – place stitch marker

WS – wrong side

Video Tutorial

Watch the full video tutorial for the twin v stitch in this shirt pattern here.

Gauge

*A note about gauge. Checking your gauge is important to achieve the correct sizing. Crochet a gauge swatch with the yarn and hook you plan to use. If you have more or less stitches than the listed gauge you need to use a hook smaller or larger to get the correct gauge.  Read more on gauge in this blog post.

4″ / 10 cm x 4″ / 10 cm = 20 sts  x 11 rows in pattern

Gauge Swatch Pattern

  1. Ch 32
  2. Follow the pattern Rows 1-3 until your swatch measures 4”+
  3. Measure and count how many stitches per 4 inches. If you have more than 20 sts, then try going up a hook size, if you have less, then try going down a hook size. 
  4. Measure in length (rows), if you have more than 11 rows then try going down a hook size and if you have less than 11 rows then try going up a size—unless your stitch gauge is right on, then you can use the hook that works for stitch gauge and just work more or less rows to accommodate your row gauge.
  5. If you cannot meet gauge by going up or down one hook size you may need to go up or down by a size in the pattern to get the correct width for your panels. See the Fit Chart for detailed measurements.
Side back view of drapey crochet top on woman outside.

Fit

To fit bust size: XS (30”), S (34”), M (38”), L (42”), XL (46”), 2X (50), 3X (54”), 4X (58”), 5X (62”) / XS (76 cm), S (86 cm), M (96.5 cm), L (106.5 cm), XL (117 cm), 2X (127 cm), 3X (137 cm), 4X (147 cm), 5X (158 cm).

This top has a recommended 1 – 4 in / 2.5 – 10 cm of positive ease, where the finished top is larger than the actual bust/hip measurement.

Finished Hip/Bust: XS (31”), S (36”), M (39”), L (44”), XL (47”), 2X (52), 3X (55”), 4X (60”), 5X (63”) / XS (78.5 cm), S (91.5 cm), M (99 cm), L (112 cm), XL (119.5 cm), 2X (132 cm), 3X (139.5 cm), 4X (152.5 cm), 5X (160 cm).

As this pattern is worked without shaping, I recommend choosing size/ease that comfortably fits your widest measurement. For some that will be the hip, for some the stomach and some the bust.

Panel Width: XS (15.5”), S (18”), M (19.5”), L (22”), XL (23.5”), 2X (26), 3X (27.5”), 4X (30”), 5X (31.5”) / XS (39.5 cm), S (45.5 cm), M (49.5 cm), L (56 cm), XL (59.5 cm), 2X (66 cm), 3X (70 cm), 4X (76 cm), 5X (80 cm).

Adjustments

There is no shaping in the pattern. If you would like to add shaping, choose the fit for your largest measurement and use decreases at both ends of a row to narrow the rectangle to fit your waist or bust. *Unless your narrowest measure is the hip, then you should choose the size corresponding to that measurement and add increases on either end of rows to increase as you work.

Depending on where you fall in the size range, you may want to size up or down. This boatneck shirt is designed to have a classic fit and hip length. 

Length: XS (21.5”), S (21.5”), M (22”), L (22”), XL (23”), 2X (23), 3X (23.5”), 4X (23.5”), 5X (24.5”) / XS (54.5 cm), S (54.5), M (56 cm), L (56 cm), XL (58.5 cm), 2X (58.5 cm), 3X (59.5 cm), 4X (59.5cm), 5X (62 cm).

If you would like a longer shirt, just add more rows. Measure from the top of your shoulder down to your where you want the hem to stop. 

If you would like to add sleeves, you can do so after your top is seamed together. I recommend joining at the underarm.

Video Tutorial

Watch the full video tutorial for this crochet top on my YouTube channel.

Scroll down for the free crochet summer top pattern!

Purchase the ad-free, well formatted printable PDF Pattern from my shop. Scroll down for the free pattern!

Pattern Instructions

Women's Top Crochet Pattern | Belinda Top

Women's Top Crochet Pattern | Belinda Top

Yield: 1
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Active Time: 6 hours
Additional Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy
Estimated Cost: $25-$50

The Belinda Top for women is a sleeveless shirt with a classic fit. This easy to crochet top is just as easy to wear. The free crochet top pattern includes women's sizes XS-5X.

Materials

  • #3 lightweight/DK yarn pictured in Berroco Comfort DK (50% Super Fine Nylon, 50% Super Fine Acrylic, 1.75 oz / 50 g, 178 yd / 165 m) color: barley.
  • Yarn by Size
  • XS - 5 balls (890 yd / 825 m)
  • S - 6 balls (1068 yd / 990 m)
  • M - 6 balls (1068 yd / 990 m)
  • L - 7 balls (1246 yd / 1155 m)
  • XL - 7 balls (1246 yd / 1155 m)
  • 2X - 8 balls (1424 yd / 1320 m)
  • 3X - 9 balls (1602 yd / 1485 m)
  • 4X - 9 balls (1602 yd / 1485 m)
  • 5X - 10 balls (1780 yd /1650 m)

Tools

  • 3.5 mm US Hook Size E, or hook needed to meet gauge.
  • Measuring tape, yarn needle, stitch marker (2) optional, and scissors

Instructions

  1. Make 2
    XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
    Ch 80 (92, 100, 112, 120, 132, 140, 152, 160)

    Row 1. (RS) Place 2 dc in the 5th ch from your hook(skipped chs count as the first dc), First stitches of row 1.
  2. Row 1 (cont.) 2 dc in the next ch,
  3. Row 1 (cont.) *{sk 2 chs, 2 dc in the next ch, 2 dc in the next ch} rep from * until the last two chs
  4. Row 1 (cont.) then sk 1 ch and dc in the last, turn. (78, 90, 98, 110, 118, 130, 138, 150, 158 sts)End of row 1 complete with double crochet in the last.

    Row 2. Ch 3, sk the next dc, Start row 2 with a chain 3.
  5. Row 2 (cont.) 2 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc,
  6. Row 2 (cont.) *{sk the next two dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc} rep from * until the last two dcsKeep repeating the 2 double crochets next each other.
  7. Row 2 (cont.) then sk the next dc and dc in the last, turn. (78, 90, 98, 110, 118, 130, 138, 150, 158 sts)Repeat until two stitches are left.Place a double crochet in the last stitch (top chain).

    Rows 3 - 57 (57, 59, 59, 61, 61, 63, 63, 65) Ch 3, sk the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, *{sk the next two dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc} rep from * until the last two dcs then sk the next dc and dc in the last, turn.
  8. Rep Row 3 until work = 20.5” (20.5”. 21.5”, 21.5”, 22”, 22”, 23”, 23”, 23.5”) in / 52 (52, 54.5, 54.5, 56, 56, 58.5) cm, or for the desired length.
  9. Cut yarn and leave a long tail for seaming.
  10. Repeat for second panel.
  11. Assembly
    Seaming Tips
  12. When sewing: Thread a yarn needle with a length of yarn that is double the number of inches you need to sew. This is usually plenty.
  13. You may use a whip stitch or mattress stitch to sew.
  14. Work on the WS of the fabric.
  15. When sewing two different pieces together be sure the stitches are facing the same way (make sure one is not upside down and that both RS are together). Use your start chain slip knot to help you identify Row 1 if needed.
  16. Start from the bottom corner or outer edge when possible to be sure you’re lined up evenly. If you start in the middle of an edge or row it’s easy to get “off.”
  17. It’s most important to match row to row and stitch to stitch to keep it even.
    Two panels laid together and seamed at sides and shoulders.
  18. Seam the shoulders
  19. Lay the two panels on top of one another, with the RS together.
  20. Use a yarn needle and the long tails you left to sew the shoulder seams together on both sides.
  21. From outer edge, sew shoulders together for 14 (18, 22, 26, 30, 38, 42, 46, 50 sts) = 3” (3.5”, 4.5”, 5”, 6”, 7.5”, 8.5”, 9”, 10") in / 7.5 (9, 11.5, 12.5, 15, 19, 21.5, 23, 25.5) cm wide.
  22. Rep on other side. Boatneck style opening should be 10" (11", 11", 12", 12", 11", 11", 12", 12") in / 25.5 (28, 28, 30.5, 30.5, 28, 28, 30.5, 30.5) cm wide after seaming shoulders.
  23. Try it on now to see how the boatneck fits. Make any adjustments to the boatneck before continuing to seam the sides.
    Finish off.

  24. Seam the sides
    Use your measuring tape and stitch marker to mark where to stop sewing on the sides and leave the armhole opening. Measure 6.5” (7", 7.5", 8", 8.5", 9", 9.5", 10", 10.5") in / 16.5 (18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm down from the top of the shoulder and pm. Mark the same row on the opposite side of the panel to be sure they’re even.

    Sew the sides together. You may use a whip stitch or mattress stitch to sew. Start from the bottom corner and stop where you marked for the armhole. It’s important to match row to row to keep it even. Rep for other side.

    Finishing
  25. NecklineSingle crochets around wide boatneck type neckline.
    To finish join yarn with a sl st to any stitch along the neckline, ch 1, sc in the same and in each st around, join with a sl st to first st and finish off.

  26. SleevesSingle crochet around armholes to finish sleeves.
    Join yarn with a sl st to any stitch along the armhole, ch 1, sc in the same and in each st around, join with sl st and finish off. Rep on other side. Weave in all ends.
  27. If you would like to add short or long sleeves you can add them here.

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10 Comments

  1. Beautiful top! Looks easy enough for someone like me, who has chickened out so far on making tops/ sweaters.

  2. Hello,
    I am making this top and it is beautiful! Just have one question. How would I decrease on each end? I am making a large but i need a small for the top part of my body.
    Thanks

  3. Hi Marie,
    I’m so glad you’re enjoy this pattern. To adjust it I would recommend starting decreases just before or at the natural waist. To decrease I would use a dc2tog in the first twin v set of 4 (2 dc, 2 dc) and another the last set of 4, which -4 sts. Then just keep decreasing with dc2tog on the edge stitches, maybe only decrease 2 sts on the next row. Be sure to keep all the other twin v sets of 4 (2 dc, 2 dc) in the row stacked like normal. Sounds like you’ll want to decrease about 20 sts total (which includes both panels) so only 10 on one panel and 10 on the other. You may need to alternate decrease rows with regular rows with no decreases. You can adjust this to suit you of course, just a suggestion!