Hygge Homebody Crochet Cardigan Pattern

Hi friends! I am so excited to bring you my first crochet cardigan pattern. Just as the name implies, it’s like wearing a big hug! Hygge, pronounced hue-ga is a Danish term that has to do with all things cozy and comfortable. And I just could not think of a better term to fit this snuggly crochet cardigan.

My kids and I have loved cuddling on the couch in this sweater. I tend to wear mine in the morning and evening, when the weather is cooler. These also happen to be the times when my kids want to snuggle most. They love when I wrap us up together in it and we can read a book.

Recently we took the kids to see a movie and it was one of those theaters that has the reclining chairs. I didn’t realize it before hand and I was debating on whether to wear my Hygge Homebody Cardigan because it was warmer that day. I decided to bring it just in case I was cold, and I’m so glad I did! Those reclining chairs were made for this sweater. I was so cozy and relaxed, partly due to my cuddly cardigan and partly due to a movie that captured my kids’ attention!

If it’s cool in the mornings (and it is almost everyday still) I wear my cardi out to drop kids off at school. When I want to wear it all day, it pairs beautifully with leggings or skinny jeans. It has plenty of *ahem* backside coverage, haha. I’m sure there are plenty of you lovely ladies who can pull off leggings without a long cardigan, but I am not one of those!




I wanted this crochet cardigan to be as accessible and “doable” for as many of you as possible. To make that happen I used Joann’s Big Twist Value worsted weight yarn, which has many comparable substitutes. It’s affordable, especially when you need 5-6 skeins for a cardigan. The array of colors this yarn comes in is amazing and I’m already looking forward to making more in different color combos!

The stitch I chose for this cardigan is easy & has gorgeous drape. The Pike Stitch (or extended sc) works up so so quickly. Truly, once you get the rhythm you’ll be able to crochet it with your eyes closed. I won’t tell you how I could crochet this stitch in the near dark with only the bathroom light on while I waited for my littles to fall asleep because that would be bad advice! But it is that easy! Which means your large pieces work up fast.

The construction of this crochet cardigan is simple. You crochet up a few rectangles, just like you would work a blanket. The sleeves have some decreases, but I’ve provided a detailed photo tutorial and video for the decrease. Adding the edging for hem and sleeve cuffs may be a new technique for some so again I’ve included plenty of pictures. The neck of the Hygge Homebody Cardigan may be my favorite part. It’s soft and squishy and just what I want warming my neck. Some sewing is required to join your pieces but there are plenty of resources out there to help, if you haven’t done that before. A simple search for “whip stitch” on youtube will yield a plethora of results to help you. Plus I include pictures too.



Materials:

*affiliates

Pictured is size Medium using 5 skeins of Big Twist Value in Light Rose*

S/M 1855 yds/30oz of #4 worsted weight yarn

L/XL  2,226 yds/36 oz of #4 worsted weight yarn

XXL/XXXL 2,597 yds/42oz of #4 worsted weight yarn

I/5.5mm hook* for the main body (back panel, front panels, sleeves & hem)

J/6mm hook* for the neck collar

H/5mm hook* for the pockets (optional) & sleeve cuffs

yarn needle*, scissors, pins, measuring tape



Stitches Used:

Click any of the links below for the video tutorial.

exsc-extended single crochet-insert hook into the stitch to be worked, yarn over & pull up a loop, yo and pull through 1 loop, yo and pull through 2 loops

ch-chain

sc-single crochet

blo-back loop only-crochet into the back loop only, instead of under the top two loops like normal.

hdc-half double crochet

hdc in the 3rd loop– Looking at the back of your hdc stitches, there is a distinct horizontal line that runs across the stitch. This is considered the 3rd loop and where we’ll be inserting the hook for the rest of the rows.

hygge homebody crochet cardigan



Gauge:

Hook 5.5mm (I)

4″ x 4″ = 7 sets of exsc + ch 1 (pike st) by 10 rows

See bust sizes below to choose your size. If you would like a size not listed email me at christacodesign@gmail.com and I’ll work up the numbers for you!

Bust sizes:

S-32-34″

M-36-38″

L-40-42″

XL-44-46

XXL 48-50″

XXXL 52-54″

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hygge homebody crochet cardigan beginner tutorial

Purchase the ad-free & affordable version of this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry.

The numbered pages are so helpful to have, plus you can highlight your size throughout.

Pattern:

Back Panel, hook I

This cardigan will stretch most in length, as one would expect. Mine has been washed and worn for at least a month and has stretched 2.5″ in length. Where it once stopped above my knee, it now reaches below it. But I’m only 5′ 2.” I am loving my cardigan’s length, but you can easily adjust the length of this pattern should you desire.

Pattern written in size order: S-M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL

Finished sizes:

*Measurements are only an estimate and as with all handmade items, will vary based on individual tension, yarn & hook used. Measurements are before wash & wear.

S-31.5″l x 20″ w
M-33.25″l x 22″w
L-34″l x 24″w
XL-35″l x 32″w

XXL-35.6″ x 33″w
XXXl=36.4″ x 34″w





Ch 78-80-84-98-104-108

1. SC in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 *(skp 1 ch, exsc in next ch, ch 1) repeat from * across, in the last ch place 1 exsc, turn. (39-40-42-49-52-54 sts) See the photo & video tutorial for row 1 here.

2. Ch 3 (counts as a stitch), skip 1st exsc & ch 1, exsc in next exsc from last row, ch 1, *{skip ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} repeat from * across, end with an exsc in the last sc, turn. (39-40-42-49-52-54sts)

Repeat Row 2 for Rows 3 to 79-83-85-87-89-91

Finish off.

crochet cardigan tutorial
Left front panel, back panel, right front panel, two sleeves.

Front Panels, make 2.

Finished sizes:

*Measurements are only an estimate and as with all handmade items, will vary based on individual tension, yarn & hook used.

S-31.5″l x 10″ w
M-33.25″l x 12″w
L-34″l x 12″w
XL-35″l x 14″w

XXL-35.6″ x 14.5″w
XXXL-36.4″ x 15″w

Ch 42-46-46-50-52-54

1. Sc in 2nd ch from ch 1, *(skp 1 ch, exsc in next ch, ch 1) repeat from * across, in the last ch place 1 exsc, turn. (21-23-23-25-26-27 sts)

2. Ch 3 (counts as a stitch), skip 1st exsc & ch 1, exsc in next exsc from last row, ch 1, *{skip ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} repeat from * across, end with an exsc in the 2nd chain, turn. (21-23-23-25-26-27 sts)

Repeat row 2 for rows 3 to 79-83-85-87-89-91

Match up tops of front panels with top of back panel, line up outside corners leave about 6-8 stitches in the center for the neck hole. Sew together, doubling up stitches when necessary, with a length of yarn and yarn needle using a whip stitch.

crochet cardigan tutorial



Sleeves:

Make 2

Finished sizes:

*Measurements are only an estimate and as with all handmade items, will vary based on individual tension, yarn & hook used.

S-15″l x 18″ w dec to 12″ w
M-16″l x 19″w dec to 12.5″
L-17″l x 20″w dec to 13″w
XL-17″l x 20″w dec to 13″w

XXL-18″l x 22″ w dec to 14″ w
XXXL-18″l x 22″ w dec to 14″ w

Ch 54-56-56-58-60-60

1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *(ch 1, skp 1 ch, exsc in next ch) repeat from * across, in the last ch place 1 exsc, turn. (27-28-28-29-30-30 exsc)

2. Ch 3 (counts as a stitch), skip 1st exsc & ch 1, exsc in next exsc from last row, ch 1, *{skip ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} repeat from * across, end with an exsc in the 2nd chain, turn. (27-28-28-29-30-30 exsc)

Repeat Row 2 for Rows 3 to 9

From here you’ll decrease on each of the indicated rows below. To decrease you will use the sc2tog technique, here we will call it exsc2tog on the 2nd & 3rd exsc stitches of the indicated rows and on the 3rd & 2nd stitches from the end of the same row.



Exsc2tog:

Watch the video on how to decrease here.

on the indicated row(below): Ch 3, skip the 1st exsc & ch, insert hook into the 2nd exsc, yo and pull through, (2 loops on your hook), skip the ch, insert hook into the 3rd exsc, yo and pull through 1 loop on your hook, (3 loops on hook) yo and draw through all 3 loops, ch1, continue normally with *(exsc, ch1, skp 1ch) until the 3rd exsc from the end of the row, then insert hook into the 3rd exsc from end, yo and pull through, (2 loops on your hook), skip the ch, insert hook into the 2nd exsc from end, yo and pull through 1 loop on your hook (3 loops on your hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops, ch1, end with an exsc in the 2nd chain as normal.

Decrease at the beginning and end of each of these rows (stitch count at end of dec):

So for size S (small) on Row 10 I would decrease on either of that row (in the 2nd & 3rd exsc sts and then again on the 3rd & 2nd from the last sts), at the end of row 10 I would have (25) twenty-five stitches. (27-28-28-29-30-30 exsc)

S-10 (25), 20 (23), 25 (21), 30 (19), 38 (17) last
M- 10 (26), 20 (24), 25 (22), 30 (20), 40 (18) last
L- 10 (26), 20 (24), 25 (22), 30 (20), 43 (18) last
XL- 10 (27), 20 (25), 25 (23), 30 (21), 43(19) last

XXL- 10 (28), 20 (26), 25 (24), 30 (22), 40(18), 45 (16) last
XXXL-10 (28), 20 (26), 25 (24), 30 (22), 40(18), 45 (16) last

Continue to repeat Row 2 on all rows in between decreases, Row 38-40-43-43-45-45 will be your last row.

So for size S (small) Rows 11-19 will be reps of Row 2. Then on Row 20 you will dec again on either end of that row, which will give you a stitch count of 23. Then  Rows 21-24 will be reps of Row 2 and so on.




Sewing your pieces together:

To attach sleeves to the shoulders of your sweater:

attach sleeve to cardigan

Lay out your cardigan. Find the middle of the widest end of your sleeve and line it up at the shoulder seam. Line up the corner touching the back panel at row (counting from the shoulder seam down) 17-19-21-23-25-25. Line up the other corner on the front panel with row (counting from the shoulder seam down) 17-19-21-23-25-25. Sew sleeves to body of cardigan with a yarn needle and length of yarn using the whip stitch.

sew sleeve to shoulder

Sew the cardigan sides and sleeves together:

sew side seams of cardigan

Fold cardigan together so front panels are on top of the back panel and sleeves are together. Use a yarn needle and length of yarn to sew sides and sleeves together in one seam.

sew side and sleeve seams

Start at the bottom where the panels meet and sew up, curving at the armpit and continue sewing along the sleeves. Shown by the white lines in the picture above. Repeat on other side.



Sleeve cuffs:

Hook 5mm (H), make 2 *note the tutorial shows a different hook size.

These are crocheted separately and then sewn on for a bit snugger fit.

chain 5sc in 2nd ch

1. Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, turn. (8)

single crochet across

2. Ch 1, sc in 1st stitch, sc in blo of next 6 stitches, sc in last, turn. (8)

sc in 1stsc in blo

sc blosc blo

Repeat row 2 for 22-24-26-28-30-30 more rows.



sew cuffsleeve cuff

Leave a long tail & sew short ends together to form the cuff.

fit cuff over sleeve

Now fit the cuff over the end of the sleeve.

pin cuff to sleeve

Stretch cuff  to fit and pin in 4 spots.

sew cuff to sleeve

Next use the whip stitch to sew the cuff to the sleeve with a yarn needle and the long tail you left.

sleeve cuffs

On the left the cuff is shown down, the one on the right the cuff is flipped up. The sleeves can be worn either way.



Bottom Hem Edge:

Watch a video on how to do this technique here.

This is the same ribbing technique that we used with the sleeve cuffs, we’ll be crocheting and attaching it to the bottom of the cardigan as we go. See the pictures below for exactly how to do it. You can also crochet the ribbing separately and sew it on like the sleeve cuffs.

Hook 5.5mm (I) *note the tutorial shows a different hook size.

Lay out your cardigan, position yourself at the neck, join yarn with a ss to the corner of the bottom of the front panel on your left.

edgingsc in 2nd

1. Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4)

edging



To attach to cardigan as you go:

Watch a video on how to do this technique here.

sc2tog through the two rows on the cardigan body right where you’re adding edging, sc2tog does not count as a stitch, ch 1, turn and continue working in the 4 sc stitches.

edging

When your sc row brings you back to the cardigan bottom, insert your hook in the stitch of that row, yo & pull up a loop.

edging

Then insert your hook in the next row’s stitch, yo and pull up a loop.

edging

And yo, pull through all 3 loops on your hook, ch1, turn and continue working the next row out and back. When you return to the cardigan body repeat the above steps to attach the newest two rows of ribbing to it.




edging

edging

2. Ch 1, sc in last sc from 1st row, sc in blo of next 2 scs, sc in last, turn. (4)

edging

3. Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, sc in blo of next 2, sc in last, attach to next two cardigan rows with sc2tog, turn.

edging

Repeat rows 2 and 3 around, attaching the edging as you go with a sc2tog. Finish off.

edging



Front edge/collar:

Hook J

With cardigan laid flat, right side up facing you, position yourself at the bottom end of the cardigan and attach yarn with ss at the bottom of the front panel on your left.

1. Ch 2, hdc evenly up the front panel, around the neck and back down the opposite front panel, turn.

Looking at the back of your hdc stitches from row 1, there is a distinct horizontal line that runs across the stitch. This is considered the 3rd loop and where we’ll be inserting the hook for the rest of the rows. See pictures below.

3rd loop hdc

2. Ch 2, hdc in 1st, hdc in 3rd loop of each hdc around, hdc in last, turn.

Repeat row 2 for 3 to 10-11-12-13-14-15 more rows.

Measurements are only an estimate and will vary, as all handmade items do, based on individual tension, yarn & hook used.
Finished collar is about s-2.75″w, m-3″ w, l-3.25″ w, exlg-3.75″w, XXL-4″ w, XXXL-4.5″ w



Optional Pockets:

The pockets are worked in the same stitch as the main body, but using a smaller hook so the “holes” of the stitch are smaller, but in keeping with the main design.

Hook 5mm (H)

pink yarn swatch white hook

1. Ch 24, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, skp next ch *{exsc in next, ch 1, skp next ch} repeat from * across, end with exsc in last ch, turn. (12)

2. Ch 3, Ch 3 (counts as a stitch), skip 1st exsc & ch 1, exsc in next exsc from last row, ch 1, *{skip ch 1, exsc in next exsc, ch 1} repeat from * across, end with an exsc in the 2nd chain, turn. (12)

pocket

Repeat row 2 for 14 more rows, don’t finish off.



Top of pocket ribbing:

pocketpocket

Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch fro hook and in each ch across. (4)

pocketpocketpocket

Attach to pocket with sc2tog as you go, in the same manner as the bottom edging for the cardigan, turn.



pocketpocketpocket

2. Ch 1, sc in last sc from 1st row, sc in blo of next 2, sc in last, turn. (4)

3. Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in blo of next 2, sc in last, sc2tog to attach, turn. (4)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the pocket, leave a long tail to sew pocket on.

Measurements are only an estimate and will vary based on individual tension, yarn & hook used.

Finished pocket measures: 6″ tall by 6.5″ wide

pocket



Position Pocket:

pocket

Counting from the bottom, not including the edging, place bottom of pocket along the 18th-17-th-17th-16th row, or about where it’s comfortable for you to place your hands in your pockets. Place the right edge of pocket (rs up facing you)on the 4th exsc from the inside collar edging and left edge of pocket on 8th exsc from the seam. Line up the pocket row for row. Pin in place.

pocket

Sew pockets down along 3 edges, leaving top open. Finish off.



hygge homebody cardiganhygge homebody crochet cardigan

I hope you enjoy your Hygge Homebody Cardigan! If you loved this and know someone else would like it, please share it!

As always, please let me know if you have any questions and happy crocheting!

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hygge homebody crochet cardigan


43 thoughts on “Hygge Homebody Crochet Cardigan Pattern”

    1. Yes absolutely, if you have a length measurement you could shorten it to your desired length by working less rows.

  1. Love the cardigan! This is exactly what I have been looking for! I could print it off the website but looks like it will be about 18-20 pages. Sooo…just wondering, if I buy the pattern from you will it include all the pictures showing the project in progress at all the different stages? Thanks so much for making this available. SusanBentley

    1. Thank you! Yes, the pattern for purchase includes all the same pictures. I hope you enjoy it! Let me know if you have any questions.

  2. nice work but the diagram for decreasing stiches for the sleeves is not easy to understand,for example if the size is large how can i proceed in decreasing ,thank you

    1. Hi, thanks for asking! For the large size you would decrease once on either end of row 10 (which gives you 26 stitches after decreasing), work rows 11-19 normally, decrease again at the beginning and end of row 20 (you’ll end with 24 stitches), work rows 21-24 normally, then decrease again at the beginning and end of row 25 (22 stitches), work rows 26-29 normally, decrease at row 30 (20 sts), work rows 31-42 normally, decrease on your last row 43 (18sts). I hope that helps. The specifics on how to decrease are written in the pattern above the decrease section. Here’s the link to the video also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyFwJRK_1BE&feature=youtu.be&app=desktop

  3. Looks like a great spring car coat pattern! I’ve got some orders to finish first, but then I’m making one for myself!! 😁

  4. I just wanna snuggle up in this!!! I have to have this! Thank you much for the pattern. Love the biog,so many different things to do.

  5. Do you have instructions in the pattern for sale that includes extended sizing (2x, 3x)? I’ve got a 50″ bust and the XL pattern will be too small.

  6. This is wonderful, I’ve always wanted to make a sweater but haven’t had the confidence to do it yet.

  7. I love this sweater. I am making it in XL. Finished the back and 2 front panels and just finished 1 sleeve. Problem is, it is smaller than the finished measurments are supposed to be. 14 longx13w dec to9.5w. Can’ figure out what I did wrong.

    1. Oh no! Maybe your tension is tighter than mine? Did you use a different hook or different weight yarn? Stitch count is the same? Did you read the right numbers for the xl size? Sorry if you checked all these things already!

    1. Hi Janet, thank you! I think it would lovely in a #5. You would just need to adjust stitch count, as your stitches would be bigger. Under each section of the pattern I have a “Finished Sizes” set of measurements. You would work with those to find your stitch counts. Basically, you’d be working toward the measurements, not the stitch counts. Please let me know if you have any questions along the way. You can ask here or email me at christacodesign@gmail.com

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